The Duchess of Devonshire Tiffany blue and silver muff - December 'Special Occasion' HSM Challenge

For December's 'Special Occasion' challenge I made a special occasion muff - light Tiffany blue silk taffeta hand-painted with metallic silver paint, leaf design on both ends and a fleur-de-lis design in the center. Finished with a Duchess of Devonshire fabric portrait, trimmed in platinum silk ribbon, with platinum silk ribbon ties and a white muff insides (pillow) with 100% white goose down inside. During the late 18th century, a muff of this style and design, material, would have been used for special occasions!

The Duchess of Devonshire tiffany blue and silver Silk 'special occasion' muff

Close-up of The Duchess of Devonshire

            Historical Sew Monthly 
           DECEMBER challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Special Occasion: make something for a special event or a specific occasion, or that would have been worn to special event of specific occasion historically.

Material: Light Tiffany blue silk taffeta, hand-painted with metallic silver paint

Pattern: The Lady Detalle muff pattern on Etsy

Year: late 18th century

Notions: fabric portrait, platinum silk ribbon for the portrait and ties

How historically accurate is it? All hand-sewn. They had portrait muffs during this time, made with silk, trimmed and with down, wool or other natural fibers inside, and they had hand-stamped, hand-painted fabric at the time, so pretty close!

Hours to complete: A decent amount! Some time to paint, sew it all together, add the fabric portrait, ribbon trim and whew, creating the white goose down muff insides is, um, rather messy, LOL. So, a decent bit of time!

First worn: Not yet worn, this one's going here.

Total cost: Hard to find light aqua tiffany blue silk taffeta, 100% white goose down, silk ribbon and silver metallic paint. All stash.

A few more pics!


 

Orange Silk Sari Regency gown - August Pattern HSM Challenge

For August's HSM PATTERN challenge I made a Regency silk sari (saree) gown!

My new Regency gown made from an orange silk sari!

The orange sari I used has an embroidered gold polka dot pattern, plus some fancy gold embroidery work in patterns done with gold thread all along the edges and the main fancy area (the pallu). I also created pattern by cutting up the sari pallu and the designed edges, and use them down the front (by combining three widths together to bring some interest to the front), across the bottom, across the bodice bottom, on the sleeves and neckline binding, along the bottom hem, and more! This created various patterns on the gown, using the sari fabric and bringing interest and detail overall to the gown. 

Historical Sew Monthly AUGUST challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Pattern - make something in pattern, the bolder and wilder the better.

Material: A sari/saree from India - orange silk embroidered with gold thread - About 6 yards and 40" wide.

Pattern: La Mode Bagatelle cross over gown (I made mine open at the back so faux cross over)

Year: early 19th century

Notions: None

How historically accurate is it? It's up there, pattern is good. Also Regency women made dresses with fabric from India, which is what mine is. I mainly did it by machine and hand finished though.

Hours to complete: A few days worth of sewing: I did a lot of piecing and figuring in order to use up all the embroidered gold work in the pallu and edges, and for the neckline and sleeve binding, the bodice sash, the front hem, down the skirt front and more. I did the majority of the sewing in August, but ended up putting it aside for two months, and then finally finishing it at the end of October/beginning of November.

First worn: Worn for the first time this past Friday night at the 10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea Candlelight Dinner I hosted! I also was wearing a orange berry gold tiara headband from my lovely mother Linda, jewelry from Dames a la Mode, and painted American Duchess 'Pemberlies'.

Total cost: $25.99 for the pure silk sari online.

Here are a few in-progress pictures!

Choosing bottom trim

Inside Out View - showing piecing together
 three rows of gold trim in the middle front

And almost done!

I used all of the sari in this project, and ended up with a few small pieces of gold work and a handful of orange silk scraps remaining, that was it. I definitely enjoyed making a Regency gown from a sari, and will do so again in future!

Late 18th century black silk petticoat - July (Late) Monochrome HSM Challenge

For July's Monochrome challenge, I made a late 18th century black silk ruffled petticoat, the first piece of a black and white ensemble I'm making for an event in October. Here is the finished petticoat! This is a late finish challenge, started and finished in August, as I'm behind in HSM challenges and now trying to catch up! 

Black silk petticoat w/ pleated ruffle

Historical Sew Monthly JULY challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Monochrome - make a garment in black, white, or any shade of grey in between. 

Material: Black silk taffeta from Pure Silks/Exclusive Silks in India - 3 yards

Pattern: I've made these so many times, I don't follow a pattern anymore: I measure how long I want the petticoat (how many inches) double it, cut in half, put selvedge to selvedge, and then sew together the sides starting 11" down (for pocket slits). Then pleat to a waistband, the add ties, then hem or add a ruffle or bias ruffle gathered at the bottom via gathers or pleats. Voila! The original basic directions of how to do a basic (unruffled) petticoat was from J.P. Ryan pattern I used years ago.

Year: late 18th century

Notions: None, the ties are self fabric.

How historically accurate is it? By look, yes, reasonably: but it's a combination of machine and hand sewing, mostly machine, so...

Hours to complete: An hour to cut out, pin and sew the side seams, another two hours to pleat then re-pleat and sew together, another hour to cut out ruffle, sew gathering stitch, then gathering threads broke, so then I pleated the ruffle by hand. Probably 6 all together.

First worn: Not yet worn: part of a black and white ensemble for an event in October.

Total cost: Black silk taffeta was from the stash, so yay. Paid $18/yard I think. 

Regency Napoleonic Open Court Robe - April (Late) 'Gender-Bender' HSM challenge

For April's 'Gender-Bender' challenge, I made a Napoleonic bee open court robe, which reflects the heavy influence of men and the politics of the day on women's dress. During this part of the Regency era, Napoleon used the bee as a symbol of his strength, reign and power. Thus 'Napoleonic' bees became a part of ladies court wear: it was worn by Empress Josephine, a fashion leader of the day, the Emperor Napoleon himself, the royal family and a few favored members of his court. I made the bee open court robe in April, but trimmed it in June. 

Below the lovely red silk brocade splurge in order to make this fun outfit!

Red silk brocade with embroidered gold bees

Napoleonic bees open court robe - in progress

Historical Sew Monthly APRIL challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Gender-Bender – make an item for the opposite gender, or make an item with elements inspired by the fashions of the opposite gender. 

Material: Red silk brocade with gold Napoleonic bees, a narrow 30" wide

Pattern: Butterick 4890

Year: Napoleonic era court robe about 1804-1807

Notions: Matching belt of same fabric. Bronze gold metal trim on both the open court robe and the belt.

How historically accurate is it? It's patterned after the shape and seam placement of the court robes of the era as far as I can tell (I am not an expert, not having seen extant garments in person, but have looked at them online and fashion plates of the time). The trains can be very wide to very narrow, and medium to extremely long. The fabric I believe is as close to period appropriate as possible. I machine sewed the long seams and hand finished and did hand sewn trim.

Hours to complete: I was about half a day in cutting it out, since I was super careful in cutting with wasting the least amount of fabric, in order to save the most possible of what was remaining. The fabric was only 30" wide, so it was quite difficult to cut out, and I had to piece on the two side train pieces. Also took a long time to sew together, sew in a lining, hem and create the belt, add the bronze gold metal trim. I lost track, but I'd say this was probably about 30 hours altogether.

First worn: Worn to the Gala this year at Costume College in July 2016, with an embroidered court gown underneath!

Total cost: Er, um, this fabric cost waaaaaay too much. I searched for silk bee fabric for a court ensemble for years: I was looking for black with gold bees or purple or royal blue with gold bees, but burgundy with gold bees is what I could find finally, so red it was! It was $33/yard. Lining fabric was stash, and trim inexpensive. Totally worth it, I'm so happy with the finished court robe!

Napoleonic era 'bees' open court robe by TheLadyDetalle

'Bees, Bees, Bees'

Cream quilted silk petticoat - Late February 'Tucks & Pleating' challenge

Here's the finished challenge, a cream quilted silk petticoat lined in cream silk dupioni, pictured here with my pink 18th century statys (posted quite late, but finished in March):

Cream quilted silk petticoat

Historical Sew Monthly FEBRUARY challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Tucks & Pleating - make a garment that features tucks and pleating for the shape or decoration

Material: cream quilted silk and cream silk dupioni for lining

Pattern: JP Ryan petticoat instructions from memory, so half made up ;)

Year: late 18th century

Notions: Silk satin ribbon for ties

How historically accurate is it? Pretty close. The side seams and insides were done by machine as was the quilted silk. The hem waistband, ties, pocket openings and anything visible were hand sewn.

Hours to complete: Probably about 5-6 hours

First worn: Not yet worn: made for CoCo 2016.

Total cost: Both from stash. Quilted silk was bought with a 50% coupon at G Street Fabrics last year, and the cream silk dupioni was bought on online sale. 

Regency 'fichu' mustard yellow silk w/ black silk trim - March HSM 'Protection' Challenge

For March's Protection challenge, I decided to create a piece that protects from the cold, in this case a small 'fichu' to go with my Regency mustard cotton cross-over gown. These fichus were meant to cover the neck, shoulders and decolette in order to provide coverage and warmth, in essence 'protecting' one from the cold!

The finished early 19th century silk 'fichu':

Silk Regency 'fichu' - mustard yellow w/ black trim

 I went to PureSilks in India in order to find a mustard yellow silk taffeta. Once it came, I used the draped pattern that I created late last year while making this version, to cut out the fichu (all one piece on the fold) and then cut out a lining in a yellow silk or silk/cotton blend I picked up recently. I had some black silk taffeta bias binding already made for another project that was not used, so this was a quick project to put together and hand sew.

The back of the 'fichu' which protects the shoulders, neck and upper back from the cold

Historical Sew Monthly MARCH challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Protection - make something to protect yourself (from weather or injury) or your clothes (from soiling, etc.).

Material: Mustard yellow silk taffeta from PureSilks. Black silk taffeta from the stash (L.A. Fashion District purchase a few years ago). Lining is a silk or silk/cotton blend picked up last year.

Pattern: TheLadyDetalle (drafted my own pattern based on a Regency fashion plate)

Year: early 19th century

Notions: N/A

How historically accurate is it? Very: the pattern is based on a Regency fashion plate you can see if you follow the link to my previous version (link above) (although you don't see as many of these types of outerwear fichus made out of solid fabric versus lace or organza, they do exist) and the garment is hand sewn.

Hours to complete: 2 hours to prep fabric, iron, cut it out and create bias binding, 4 hours to pin and sew it all together.

First worn: Not yet. Planned for wear at CoCo 2016 in July!

Total cost: $18 a yard for the mustard yellow silk, bought 2 yards but only used 1 and 1/4 yards. Black silk taffeta trim used for bias binding is from the stash, but used less than 3/8 yard bias cut at $16/yd).

Regency silk 'fichu' by TheLadyDetalle

A bunch of UFO's - January HSM 'Procrastination' Challenge

For January's UFO Challenge and to meet one of my sewing side goals of 2016, I decided it was time to knock out some of those UFO's that have been sitting around for awhile, waiting to get done.

First, I hemmed two sides on a golden super lightweight silk to create a SASH (#1), then finished the cotten silk blend Edwardian over-skirt (#2) from two years ago I never finished, then hemmed the three sides on an off-white organza triangle to create a FICHU (#3), then I made two more PILLOW COVERS (#4) using small pieces of 'designer' drapery fabric and blue silk dupioni from the stash, and then I hand-sewed an orange silk taffeta MUFF (#5) (I plan to decorate it more in future) which was just lying about with a few stitches started, and finally, I did my bodice fixes (#6) and add trim to the waistline of my mustard yellow cotton early 19th century crossover GOWN. I have more trim I was planning to add around the trim as edging but I may decide to leave it here. Either way, it's better fit & now wearable again!

Mustard yellow cotton with black cotton trim - early
19th century cross over gown by TheLadyDetalle

Golden silk sash - very thin

Cotton silk Edwardian over-skirt

Fichu - late 18th century

Orange silk taffeta mu

Set of 'designer' pillows with blue silk dupioni backs

Secondly, in the interest on further meeting the challenge, I started (but didn't finish) a project (#7)  I have been putting off for a very long time: a Robe a la Francaise. I used the J.P. Ryan pattern and created a muslin, then re-drew and created a second muslin for fitting, and now I've cut out the gown and ready to start sewing it together (finally), after many years of procrastination over doing this style of dress. I have been researching the drape, fit, style, fabrics, designs, and overall look of this style of gown for many months now.

There is so much about this silhoutte that is both different and shows how the back pleats down the center in a single length of fabric in the Robe a la Francaise and shorter Pet 'en lair, with loose pleats are later 're-purposed' into the 'en fourreau' pleats of the English gown en fourreau, which is pleats sewn down but a single length of fabric down to the floor. What a neat style and lots of fun to make and wear!

My aim is to have in done in time for the 5th Annual Francaise Dinner, so wish me luck!
I'm really happy to start off January meeting the Procrastination challenge by knocking out quite a few UFO's AND working on a dress that I have been procrastinating starting on for many years!

Historical Sew Monthly JANUARY challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Procrastination - finish a garment you have been putting off finishing (a UFO or PHD) or make something you have been avoiding starting. 

Fabric: various fabrics from the UFO's.

Pattern: Sash - no pattern (long rectangle), fichu - no pattern (triangle), set of pillows - no pattern, traced out the prior cover, over skirt - one of the big three, muff - TheLadyDetalle muff pattern, cross over gown - a highly modified version of S&S's cross over gown, and JP Ryan for the Robe a la Francaise.

Year: various years from mid 18th to early 20th centuries.

Notions: various

How historically accurate is it? sash - very, fichu - very, pillows - I believe the fabric and print is appropriate, over skirt - by all accounts yes, muff - definitely, cross over gown - very accurate cut and fabric and fit - a bit high neckline, JP Ryan - will be very accurate.

Hours to complete: Sash - few hours, fichu - few hours, pillows - few hours, finish over skirt - few hours, muff - few hours, gown - a half day, and a few evenings muslins, planning and cutting on the Francaise.

First worn: None of them yet, will use most this year!

Total cost: Stash, stash, stash - Sash - fabric bought on super sale long ago, fichu - fabric free from a friend, pillows - bought for $20 each many years ago - the remnants I used were VERY cheap, over-skirt - from stash years ago, orange silk taffeta - sale remnant, and cross over gown - stash fix, and Francaise - the fabric was sale from Fashion District, I'll post about it later.