Sunday, November 20, 2016

Burgundy Red Bee Lady Worsley silk muff - November 'Red' HSM Challenge

For November's 'Red' challenge I made a burgundy red embroidered bee silk muff with Lady Worsley fabric portrait and silk ribbon embellishment & silk ties!
Burgundy 'red' Bee Lady Worsley silk muff
I adore bee fabric, so this was a lot of fun to make and embellish and relatively quick to hand sew together! :). I was targeting 1798-1802 with this design, but really this is appropriate for anytime from 1775-1820, and could even go much later.
In progress burgundy bee muff - pleating the
silk ribbon along the two sides
            Historical Sew Monthly 
           NOVEMBER challenge:

The Challenge: Red - Make something in any shade of red. 

Material: embroidered bee burgundy red silk dupioni designer fabric

Pattern: TheLadyDetalle muff pattern

Year: 1798-1802, really any late 18th to late 19th century+, but I was targeting those 4 years

Notions: fabric portrait of Lady Worsley (in a riding habit) & silk ribbon for embellishment

How historically accurate is it? It is an appropriate size, shape, style and embellishment for one of the time, and is all hand sewn.

Hours to complete: Approximately 5-6 hours of hand sewing and finishing.

First worn: Not worn yet - I had planned this for use in the new year and decided instead to sell it to my friend Judy ;). I also added a custom 'made to order' version in my Etsy shop.

Total cost: The fabric was designer and high price per yard and also silk ribbon for pleated trim around the portrait, along both sides and for the silk ties.

A few more pics!
The golden tones of the fabric and ribbon

'Lady Worsley' in a late 18th century riding habit
Side view of the silk, down-filled muff

Lady Worsley riding habit bee silk muff by TheLadyDetalle

Tuesday, November 8, 2016

Orange Silk Sari Regency gown - August Pattern HSM Challenge

For August's HSM PATTERN challenge I made a Regency silk sari (saree) gown!
My new Regency gown made from an orange silk sari!
The orange sari I used has an embroidered gold polka dot pattern, plus some fancy gold embroidery work in patterns done with gold thread all along the edges and the main fancy area (the pallu). I also created pattern by cutting up the sari pallu and the designed edges, and use them down the front (by combining three widths together to bring some interest to the front), across the bottom, across the bodice bottom, on the sleeves and neckline binding, along the bottom hem, and more! This created various patterns on the gown, using the sari fabric and bringing interest and detail overall to the gown. 

Historical Sew Monthly AUGUST challenge:

The Challenge: Pattern - make something in pattern, the bolder and wilder the better.

Material: A sari/saree from India - orange silk embroidered with gold thread - About 6 yards and 40" wide.

Pattern: La Mode Bagatelle cross over gown (I made mine open at the back so faux cross over)

Year: early 19th century

Notions: None

How historically accurate is it? It's up there, pattern is good. Also Regency women made dresses with fabric from India, which is what mine is. I mainly did it by machine and hand finished though.

Hours to complete: A few days worth of sewing: I did a lot of piecing and figuring in order to use up all the embroidered gold work in the pallu and edges, and for the neckline and sleeve binding, the bodice sash, the front hem, down the skirt front and more. I did the majority of the sewing in August, but ended up putting it aside for two months, and then finally finishing it at the end of October/beginning of November.

First worn: Worn for the first time this past Friday night at the 10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea Candlelight Dinner I hosted! I also was wearing a orange berry gold tiara headband from my lovely mother Linda, jewelry from Dames a la Mode, and painted American Duchess 'Pemberlies'.

Total cost: $25.99 for the pure silk sari online.

Here are a few in-progress pictures!
Choosing bottom trim
Inside Out View - showing piecing together
 three rows of gold trim in the middle front
And almost done!
I used all of the sari in this project, and ended up with a few small pieces of gold work and a handful of orange silk scraps remaining, that was it. I definitely enjoyed making a Regency gown from a sari, and will do so again in future!

Sunday, November 6, 2016

10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea and Dinner

Friday - The 10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea Candlelight Dinner

This weekend was the 10th anniversary of my annual Regency Pumpkin Tea, a private Regency event that I host. As this was the 10th year I have hosted this, I wanted to do something special, and so I planned a Regency candlelight dinner on Friday night, and the Regency Pumpkin Tea on Saturday lunch. It was great fun!

I cooked all the dinner food Friday, with a bit of help from a friend on the vegetables and pear desert (thanks Ali!). We had punch, port, champagne, and more, eating, drinking and laughing, and some games of cards with betting "diamonds" and entire collections of tiaras (LOL).
Friday's dinner repast of Regency fare

Friends making new friends!
The Regency dinner table and candles
The table lit by candlelight
Ali and I having a great time!
Lovely Regency ladies enjoying the evening!
My new gown - orange silk sari Regency

This was my first time hosting a Regency dinner (not a sit down 13 course meal I'm afraid, lol), but I did try to choose all period appropriate fare, and had fun pulling it all together. I have some tweaks and improvements in mind for next year (the cream sherry was too sweet, the port great, the vegetables yummy (but will cook fewer and longer next time), the pear/orange/raisin/brown sugar desert YUM, the Cornish hens came out great, but the brisket I can improve upon, and Trader Joe's, as always, came through with some wonderful delights! :).

I picked up candles from World Market, and they burned great, so more of those for next time. And the two 5-candle candlelabra's plus another 7 few single candles around provided lots of great light, so that was great. We also had a fire in our fireplace in the front room for the first ever since we bought the house, and that added to the ambiance.

Saturday - The 10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea
10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea (photo courtesy Gloria)
Saturday's food was catered from a local catering company (plus some extra scones I baked and some leftovers from Friday) and was definitely worth the catering expense (I hope I can budget it again in future) because we had a leisurely morning on Saturday, prepared the tables/room (thank you ladies for all your help!) and then everyone arrived and the tea began!
About ready to begin the tea!
A bit of sun on some lovely ladies!
Ali and the meandering after the tea
Fire pit shoe shot!!
Vanessa's lovely blue gown!

My friend Judy helping me with my tiny spencer buttons
Regency group wedgie shot! (photo courtesy Gloria)

My friend Ali and I at the tea

My autumn ensemble - my 'strawberry picking'
gown, Regency apron, black sash, mustard
silk fichu, brown velvet spencer, and stovepipe
bonnet from Amanda's etsy shop

A bit of shenanigans
Tree climbing shenanigans!

Judy in my favorite maple tree
Kat, Judy and myself - what a fun weekend!
Saturday included tea, then meanderings around the yard, photos, an impromptu and delightful repast outdoors sipping champagne, then fabric exchange, more tea and food, before a large fire in the fire pit out back (just because, and yes, Guy Fawkes day), more drinking and a viewing of 'Austenland'...a long and glorious day! Some of my favorite pictures:
Toasting the company with champagne

We planted the Fabulousity Club flag and I christened my land with champagne!
We planted the Fabulousity Club flag in the yard!
My friend Ali (whom I met at work many years ago), came to her first ever costume events this weekend in borrowed wear, and looked great! :)

We did a fire pit that evening -
Guy Fawkes day appropriate ;)
Planting the flag! (Photo courtesy Gloria)
10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea group shot (courtesy Gloria)
Friends came from near and far, and it was so lovely to have all my closest friends together to have a fun costuming weekend together! Those of you who couldn't come were missed, but many shenanigans took place and lots of fun was had! Some ladies stayed over Friday night and a few more on Saturday: the weekend went by so fast, but I think I can safely say it was a success! THANK YOU so much to everyone for coming and being lovely guests, I had a wonderful time!!

I didn't get a lot of pictures of the dinner, but all of my pictures are here (Friday) and here (Saturday) ;).

And I can hardly believe that 10 years have gone by!

Sunday, October 30, 2016

White and Black late 18th century jacket - October 'Heroes' HSM Challenge

For October's 'Heroes' challenge I made a white & black silk late 18th century jacket and black silk sash to go with my black silk petticoat. 

One of my costuming acquaintance friends, Merja, made a lovely white with black trim late 18th century gown a few years ago, (I believe inspired by one worn in a drawing of Marie Antoinette), and I was inspired by Merja's exquisite detail and work (she is one of my costuming 'heroes') to make a white late 18th century jacket trimmed in black when I was invited to a costume friend's black and white party! 
October's 'Hero' HSM challenge - a white and black
silk late 1770's jacket and black sash
Historical Sew Monthly OCTOBER challenge:

The Challenge: Heroes - Make a garment inspired by your historical hero, or your historical costuming hero. 
Material: White silk dupioni from the L.A. Fashion District and black silk taffeta from PureSilks.

Pattern: My draped 1770's English gown pattern as the base, and then I scaled it up a bit, added a peplum, etc.

Year: late 1770's-early 1780's

Notions: Hooks and eyes, ridgeline to stiffen the front.

How historically accurate is it? From afar it looks historically accurate, but it is only so-so; the Robe a la Anglaise pattern is accurate, but I did not pleat the back but cut it as a single piece (to save fabric). All inside seams were done by machine, all outside and visible sewing was done by hand. The cuffs are a smaller version of cuffs done on 1750's/1760's Robe a la Francaise gowns, which I'm not sure if they used this size/style in later decades. So it's a bit of a mix.

Hours to complete: I lost track, but a few hours to cut out and sew together, and then a few more to add sleeve cuffs and sleeve binding, add a peplum, add more to the peplum, add the ridgeline (front stiffening), bind the peplum, bind the jacket, and then add hooks and eyes. And later hem (by machine) a black silk taffeta sash to go with it. Probably 12+ hours overall if not twice that. This one took a long while to put together.

First worn: To a costumer friend's birthday masquerade party last weekend.

Total cost: $5.60 a yard for the white silk dupioni (used a 3 yard piece with some left), and $18 a yard for the black silk taffeta, used about two yards. A few dollars for two pieces of ridgeline and hooks and eyes.
The finished jacket - white with black trim
and black silk sash

Napoleonic Bee Muff and Sewing Kit 'Housewife' - September 'Historicism' HSM Challenge

Double entry: Late 18th or early 19th century Napoloenic Bee silk muff and sewing kit 'housewife' - posted late but finished both in September! 

For September's 'Historicism' challenge I made a late 18th or early 19th century Napoleonic Bee muff and a 'housewife' (sewing kit) in a deep burgundy red with embroidered gold bees, finished with gold silk ribbon ties, out of leftover fabric from my earlier 'Bees, Bees, Bees' Napoleonic Bee Regency court robe:

Napoleonic Bee muff in deep burgundy red with
embroidered gold bees & gold silk ribbon ties
Napoleonic Bee silk sewing kit 'housewife'

            Historical Sew Monthly 
           SEPTEMBER challenge:

The Challenge: Historicism – Make a historical garment that was itself inspired by the fashions of another historical period.

The bee has been around for centuries, and was used in decoration and fashion going all the way back to ancient Egypt. During the Regency era, Napoleon chose the bee as a symbol of royalty, his reign as emperor and of his power. But Napoleon himself borrowed this symbol from earlier use, inspired by the fashions of earlier historical periods. 

Material: Muff and 'housewife': Burgundy silk brocade embroidered with gold bees, mustard yellow silk taffeta (lining of bee muff and binding on 'housewife' sewing kit), gold yellow quilted silk (sewing kit), and sewing kit scraps: coutil, quilted silk, silk taffeta binding, silk taffeta pocket, and more.

PatternTheLadyDetalle muff pattern and TheLadyDetalle housewife pattern

Year: late 18th century to early 19th century

Notions: antique gold silk satin ribbon ties (muff) and gold silk ribbon ties (sewing kit)

How historically accurate is it? Very. Both items are 100% hand sewn, fabrics are period appropriate, and muff is an appropriate size, shape and material for the time. Sewing kit 'housewife' is period appropriate to ones from the late 18th century.

Hours to complete: Muff: a few hours to sew finished edges, binding and finish. 'Housewife' Sewing kit: a few hours to cut everything out and make binding then sew binding onto fashion and lining, then sew the needle holder, pin holder, thread holder, and pockets inside, probably 6-8 hours total.

First worn: Neither have been used yet, muff is planned for use this winter.

Total cost: Minimal. Remnants and leftover silk scraps used to put this together, other than the 100% white goose down muff pillow inside and the silk ribbon ties. Probably about $15 in material total plus the cost of the luxury high end down.

Finished Napoleonic Bee muff

Finished Napoleonic Bee Sewing Kit 'Housewife'

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Quick project - pink silk work bag

Here's a quick project I threw together in the last week: it's something I've been meaning to make for awhile, an 18th century work bag. I decided to make it out of pink silk taffeta, lined in cream silk taffeta and finished with natural white silk satin ribbon ties. I basically just cut out two squares of each fabric 13 X 13, fashion and lining, sewed the lining together (using a small seam allowance), then sewed the fashion together. Then turned the fashion inside out and left the lining outside in, inserting it INSIDE the fashion. Pinned and sewn into place, and then binding channel to finish edges and add ties.

Pink silk work bag by TheLadyDetalle
Inside of pink silk work bag
Ties drawn pink silk work bag
I'm sure this will come in handy with bringing sewing projects with me on the go!