Monday, February 12, 2018

Sewing progress - light aqua blue green silk late 18th century jacket

Sewing progress!

I started a new late 18th century jacket on Sunday, but didn't get very far yet because I ended up doing a closet purge instead, lol. So far I cut out the bodice, sleeves, and sleeve flounces, and pinned down the back pleats, before hand sewing 1 of 4 back pleats down: 

I'm thinking Robe a la' Anglaise jacket with peplum, maybe even with a hood. Haven't decided yet, but I'm using my base late 18th pattern I redrafted in 2016 in a light aqua blue green silk taffeta. It needs a few more tweaks, but it's a good place to start. 

I'm still researching Robe a la' Anglaise variations: hoods in the late 18th century were generally on capes and other outerwear, and when they were on gowns or jackets, it was generally a Brunswick or Jesuit, although I've also seen a Polannaise with a hood and I think a Robe a la Anglaise too, but I need to research more and decide soon. If you have any fashion plates/prints or portraits or extents that you can share of a Robe a la' Anglaise with a hood, I'd love to see it, thanks! 

Sunday, January 7, 2018

1880's Teal Blue Silk BUSTLE from two sari's - HSM January "Mend, Reshape, Refashion" challenge

For January's "Mend, Reshape, Refashion" challenge, I RE-FASHIONED a mid-late 1880's Victorian bustle gown out of two matching teal blue silk SARI's!

TheLady Detalle mid-late 1880's Teal Blue silk BUSTLE from Two silk sari's
 These were, of course, intended to be worn as sari/saree dress, and were instead used for enough fabric to make a late Victorian bustle. It was a fun challenge to figure out how to cut out everything to best use the solid teal blue silk, how to use the pallu ends, how to use the gold edging, etc. Sari's are not very wide but are usually 5-6 yards long, so the width challenge meant I had some gold edging in my pieces, so I did a bit of re-shaping and work arounds to get it to work right.

Mid-late 1880's Teal Blue Silk BUSTLE from 2 Sari's, worn with my late Victorian corset, foundation bustle and cream silk underskirt. Accessorized with a vintage necklace and a version of my TLD Victorian garnet grape cluster earrings, but with 14k gold loops and gold leaf design instead of sterling silver (to go with all the gold on my dress) and hair by me (added in a few hair clip in/pin in bits to add volume/curls and used some of my gold edging to make a sort of hair design wrap). I'm also wearing my AD Balmorals (adore them). 

The Challenge: January Mend, Reshape, Refashion - Mend or re-shape one of your previously made historical clothing items, or refashion a new one out of something not originally intended as sewing fabric.

Material: 2 qty matching silk sari's in a deep teal blue silk with gold metallic edging

Pattern: Truly Victorian TV460 Curaiss evening bodice, TV261 Four-gore underskirt and TV305 Apron Overskirt. Did some modifying to reshape and either exclude or include gold edging, added a "pallu" train.

Year: Late Victorian, mid-late 1880's

Notions: Few yards of black twill tape from B&T for apron ties, white boning for the bodice and interface for the bodice, and some tulle for the skirt.

How historically accurate is it? Pretty historically accurate in pattern, fit, cut and fabric. Sewn by machine (which is historically accurate for this time). The least historically accurate thing about it is the hidden safety pins I used for closures since I despise sewing on fastenings ;).

Hours to complete: A lot. I wasn't great about keeping track, but it was roughly a few hours to cut everything out, then a good half day sewing multiple times on each: skirt, apron and bodice. Add some extra time on adding ties, tulle, interface, boning, planning out how to use the pallu and edging, and trim on the bodice, and the best shape for the skirt train (not part of the pattern, added by me), and it ended up being quite a LOT of sewing!! I started this in 2017 and finished in 2018!

First worn: Last night to a re-scheduled Victorian Christmas Tea Twelfth Night hosted by ModernMantuaMaker

Total cost: All the notions were from stash, and the matching two silk sari's were from stash also. I was stash-busting on this outfit! I added the 2 matching silk sari's to my stash early last year when a friend de-stashed them at a costumer flea market: I'm lucky to have acquired them and happy to have used them from my stash so quickly (well, quickly for me, lol).

Full length view of front - the gold edging
comes from both sides of the sari (top and
bottom) and the train comes from a pallu
(highly designed) end
Accessorized with TLD Victorian GARNET
grape cluster earrings in gold available
now in my Etsy shop

Gold edging from the sari used to create an
interesting and eye catching design down the 
bodice front and around the edge of bodice

I have more trim planned in future, I ran out of time for this event, so it'll get refreshed for next wearing! ;)

Thursday, January 4, 2018

2018 Sewing Plans and Goals

2018 Sewing Plans and Goals:

My sewing plans for 2018 include new outfits for events, some fun new outerwear, and trying to sew with stash fabric that I have at hand and ready to go, and also re-joining the HSM monthly for 2018 challenges. I also would love to work on more foundation garments in 2018, natural form support and 1830's corset/stays to prep for 2019 sewing/plans. I also plan to continue embroidery projects in 2018, to continue to develop skills and add fun embroidery to accessories and projects.

PLANNED for 2018:
-Finish teal blue silk 1880's bustle (bustle from two sari's) - JAN
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse - JAN
-2018 CoCo DoW outfit - FEB
-Regency bee spencer and bonnet - FEB/MAR
-2018 CoCo Gala outfit - APR-JUL
-New Regency apron/bib front gown - MAY
-White cotton summer Victorian bustle - MAY-JUN
-New chemise dress - JUL-AUG
-New Regency for Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT
-Regency sari dress for evening Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT
-New Titanic/Downton Abbey gown and outfits OCT-NOV
-Fun sewing and UFO's - DEC
-Etsy shop creative sewing: muffs, muff pillows, reticules & more, plus creating jewelry - 2018

I added month/dates to my sewing plans to try to keep myself on track, but we'll see if that works, usually it's life stuff that changes my sewing plans.

If there's time in 2018:
-Natural form bustle foundation
-1830's corset & foundation
-late Victorian outerwear
-start my quilted petticoat project
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag

UFO's for 2018:
-Finish trim and fixes on pink striped silk late 18th century jacket
-Black & white plaid silk Edwardian skirt
-Robe a la Francaise brown & pink striped silk satin
-Early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-Late 18th century men's jacket for HB

My plans for 2018 include these new sewing goals (with some re-vamped goals):

Goal #1: sew for FUN and for FUN events

Plan and enjoy my sewing, creativity, integrate painting, beading, embroidery, trim and other embellishments to enjoy sewing, and sew with creative inspiration and fabric inspiration.

Plan and create and sew my outfits for FUN planned events, with plenty of time for creativity and enjoyment in the process.

Goal #2: sew more with Sari/Saree's

I'm super inspired by some lovely vintage silk sari/saree's from India, and have quite a few on hand for projects, and I'd like to sew with more of those in 2018.

Goal #3: UFO's and de-stash

One of my goals in 2018 is to get some of my UFO's either done, make plans to get them done, or move them along to someone who will. My goal is to cut down on my UFO pile. Another goal is to use stash fabric and also de-stash fabric - I'm going to try to hold off on fabric buying (except CoCo) and also lining fabric for 2018 projects if I don't have on hand. Currently my fabric stash is large and I find I sew best when the fabric "speaks to me" and inspires me, so I need to continue to use or part with fabric I like but that isn't inspiring me or that I have other fabric I like more for a similar purpose. I also want to try to stop saving fabric for a particular purpose and instead let the creative juices flow and consider my stash with an open mind.

Other goals:

Take part in some or all of the 2018 HSM challenges. Outsource things I don't like making or want to do, or have time for, or that I want to support another artist/creator's work. This includes foundation garments, men's garments, accessories, etc. Make some changes in how I spend my creative time and continue to re-shape my Etsy shop. Wish me luck!

Any great sewing goals or plans you have for 2018? What do you find works best for you in planning your sewing out for the new year?

2017 Year in Review

2017 Sewing - I hit a few of my big sewing goals, creating foundations for new eras with my first (and second) Victorian corset, foundation bustle and my first 1880's bustle dress. I also did an 1898 evening court ensemble, and almost finished a second 1880's Victorian bustle by the end of 2017. 

I made some outfits for events, a couple of commissions, and also started quite a few things that are currently in UFO progress and also finished up a few UFO's. Lots of time spent on my Etsy shop, including new jewelry design and creation, and also on my class prep for the three Costume College classes I taught in July. I also enjoyed some lovely costume events in re-wears and re-accessorized looks and continued to improve the organization of my sewing room, including de-stash of fabric and supplies (and some stashing too, but hey, none of us is perfect! ;) lol). 

My SEWING for 2017 included: 
First bustle - 1880's blue green plaid silk bustle
for Carolyn's Big Bustle Birthday Bash
Back of my 'buh-buh-buh-buh BUSTLE!'

Round 2 of 1880's bustle underskirt, added
another layer of ruffles after the first wear
View of late Victorian corset (2nd try) and my
white linen and wire 1880's foundation bustle

Unfinished first late Victorian corset (first try)
- this will get binding and then I'll sell
it on since it ended up too small for me ;)
1880's teal blue silk Victorian bustle skirt and apron/overskirt
Victorian bustle from two SARI's
(bodice in progress)
1898 fancy evening dress for Russian Court Dinner
Loved that evening!
Dark pink plaid cotton 1898 underskirt
Bonus view of my royal court orders - bling bling!

Round 1 of my pink striped late 18th century jacket
I wore to Francaise Dinner this year, which needs
quite a few fixes and more trim before I wear it again.
Back of the jacket - fun with stripes and an
'en forreau' back style (though the skirt of the
jacket is intentionally short)

A pile of 100% white goose down pillows for
my Portrait MUFF class at CoCo this past year
plus a bonus aqua blue muff pillow for moi ;)
A stack of housewife/huswif kits ready
to put together
My housewife/sewing kit class prep for CoCo

Early 19th century circular reticule - CoCo class 
Early 19th century reticule commission
Hot pink silk portrait muff commission for a friend

Mint green bee work bag
Black bee work bag

In progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire

My other in progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire
In progress goldwork embroidery for a reticule I'm making in 2018
Lots and lots of Etsy FUN in 2017,
including designing & making various earrings & things

My RE-WEARS for 2017 included:
With the hb at CW's Immersive Garden Party
CW's Immersive Palace Garden Party in May
Re-wore my 'barely pink' Chemise a la Reina
with a ship in my hair and feathers

Friday day at Costume College
Re-wore my strawberry picking Regency
cotton gown with new accessories: white
embroidered cotton apron and my black
and mustard silk Regency fichu
Friday night at Costume College
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat
and black silk sash with new accessories:
new TLD tiara, ITLRD jewelry
Saturday day at Costume College
Re-wore my late 1790's crossover gown
with new accessories: mustard bee and
"B" black silk reticule, silk marabou
pelerine and black shawl turban

Saturday GALA at Costume College
Re-wore my orange silk Regency gown
from a SARI with new accessories:
vintage mustard shawl, Regency diadem
from Bohemian Belle and DALM earrings

CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black silk marabou hooded cape
Lots of fun with historic houses

CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat
11th annual Regency Pumpkin Tea
Re-wore my mustard and black cotton
triangle trim crossover Regency with
new accessories: stovepipe bonnet,
Napoleonic bee muff & mustard bee and
"B" reticule
Regency Candlelit soiree
Re-wore my white embroidered cotton
crossover Regency with new accessories:
vintage silk shawl, new tiara and pearl TLD

COMPLETED in 2017:
Court gown:
-1898 evening court ensemble (skirt, underskirt, bodice)
-Set of silk royal court sashes
-Tack gold embroideries on hb's military jacket

Victorian foundations:
-1880's silk bustle petticoat/skirt - cream silk with ruffles
-1880's foundation bustle in white linen
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen

Late Victorian bustle:
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle dress/bodice
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle skirt
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle skirt

Late 18th century:
-1780's striped pink silk jacket for Francaise Dinner - round one complete

Costume College prep work for teaching 3 classes:
-Portrait muff class - kits prep, down muff insides
-Housewife sewing kit class - kits prep
-Regency detailing/reverse applique class - kits prep
-In progress: reverse applique sample and housewife sample

-Mint green bee small work bag
-Black bee work bag
-blue plaid silk sash
-Coral silk taffeta reticule - commission
-Aqua silk taffeta circular reticule with Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (CoCo UFO)

UFO's completed:
-Cream and gold printed silk late 18th century petticoat
-Fixes on my Orange Silk sari Regency gown

UFO's In Progress in 2017:
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen (first try) - just needs boning/binding
-Victorian chemise - close
-Victorian drawers - cut out and partially sewn
-Edwardian/turn of the century black & white silk plaid walking skirt - cut out and partially sewn
-early 19th century Regency gentleman's coat - partially cut out
-Pink striped silk late 18th century petticoat - just needs hem/ruffle
-various muffs and work bags, sashes, housewives and other accessories
-RSN class samplers
-Mustard and black silk circular reticule
-Fleur-de-lis goldwork sampler on silk

All in all, a good bit of sewing done in 2017!

Here's my 2017 Sewing Plans and Goals!

PLANNED for 2017:
-Robe a la Francaise
-Late 18th and early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-late Victorian corset - done
-late Victorian foundation garments - done
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse
-Outerwear - late Victorian
-Court outfit - done
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag
-Stays/Corsets: 1830's, Edwardian, Georgian, Regency
-Regency bee spencer and bonnet
-Regency sari dress
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-More Etsy shop stuff - muffs, reticules, and more

I failed to take part in the Dreamstress's HSM 2017 challenges (I derailed myself with a failed January challenge that ended up in the "bad corner" for 4-5 months before I tried again), but I'm going to try to knock out at least some of the 2018 HSM Challenges.

I'll do 2018 Plans in another post!

Sunday, December 10, 2017

Christmas comes early - RSN Embroidery books and Hand embroidery GOLDWORK

YAY, Christmas came early today: I splurged on the entire set of RSN Embroidery books plus a hoop seat frame from England, well worth it: I'm looking forward to learning more hand embroidery!
Set of Royal School of Needlework (RSN) Essential Stitch Guides
Very excited to use these in 2018 and beyond, as I delve deeper into HAND EMBROIDERY as an art form! 
I also started a practice GOLDWORK sampler with fleur-de-lis and wreath surround, so that I can practice on silk taffeta, and also plan to use this on a reticule I'm making: definitely plan to do more with hand embroidery and goldwork in future!
TLD Goldwork practice sampler in progress - far from perfect,
but it gives me a chance to practice the skill

Saturday, December 2, 2017

New project: making a bustle from two sari's

I recently started a new sewing project, my second Victorian bustle dress, mid to late 1880's, using two matching dark teal green BLUE silk Sari's. The sari/saree's are solid lightweight silk with gold metallic embroidery edging and the pallu end has a wavy metallic gold embroidery design and fringe ends.

Victorian BUSTLE gown from 2 Sari's - In progress
Fabric is stash, added this past spring from a friend's costumer yard sale, so basically she de-stashed to me and now I'm using it! Patterns: TV460 Curaiss Bodice, with TV261 Four-Gore Underskirt, with TV305 Apron Overskirt.

I'm sharing an in-progress picture here of the underskirt, although it's still partially pinned at the top back and bottom sides, it shows the in-progress skirt. I attached one of the pallu ends on the bottom as a train. I'm almost done with the apron overskirt, and then I'll need to sew the bodice, trim, as well as finish the underskirt.

This project was originally intended for a costumer friend's Victorian Christmas Tea next weekend that is being postponed/re-scheduled. I'm looking forward to finishing it and wearing it to that or another event: having fun with bustles! Has anyone else ever tried making a bustle using sari's?

Sunday, November 26, 2017

My first "buh, buh, buh, buh"...BUSTLE!!

*SQUEEEEEEEEE* I finally made my very first Victorian bustle.......aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!
My first late 1880's Victorian bustle gown in blue and red plaid Jomar silk dupioni
(photo by InTheLongRunDesigns)
My first mid-late 1880's bustle! This is a big deal for me, since I've only been planning it for over a decade (seriously, ridiculous - can you tell how much I dislike making foundation garments, lol). I FINALLY made it happen this year in October, thanks to gentle prodding and encouragement from my dear friends Judy and Kat. And Carolyn. ;)

Also a promise to finally get bustle for a friend's annual Victorian party private event done sometime this year, plus Carolyn from The Modern Mantua Maker was hosting a Big Bustle Birthday Bash in October (the pictures in this post), where bustle was preferred but late 18th century "big butts" were acceptable also! If I couldn't get my outfit together, late 18thc was my back up plan, but I pushed and pushed to finish before Carolyn's event and I'm so glad I did!

I literally finished sewing my bodice an hour and a half before Carolyn's event started (so stressful) and immediately started doing my hair so I could get dressed for the event! I'm pinned into my entire outfit (no time for sewing closures). We had a picnic in a local park, with a really good turnout, it was quite an enjoyable day! 
Bustle from the back (photo by InTheLongRunDesigns)
"Why yes, shocked I DO like wearing bustle!"
(Photo by InTheLongRunDesigns)

Back-side view, er, um, side-back view?! LOL
It was a super fun event, other than a few pushy and persistent yellow jackets, which kept insisting on invading my personal space. *shudder*...we had a lovely time though, the weather was warm yet cool, muggy yet not too bad: lots of delicious food and enjoyable company, with beautiful bustle dresses everywhere!

Really fun dress to wear, I enjoyed how the dress and silk fabric moved, and the gathered ruffles, it was just really enjoyable to wear, and just somehow felt "right."

My dress is a blue green and red plaid silk (Jomar find!) using TV460 Curaiss Bodice, with TV261 Four-Gore Underskirt, with TV305 Apron Overskirt. With TV101 Petticoat with wire bustle foundation (underneath, not pictured), with TV170 Victorian petticoats in cream silk petticoat (underneath, not pictured). Also TV110 Late Victorian corset (underneath, not pictured) in embroidered blue linen. Accessories: mini tricorn I made a few years ago, hair by me, with a red brown Lioness curly wig mixed in with my hair. Jewelry: real pearl and gold bow earrings plus matching real pearl bracelets by Lady Detalle, with a vintage pin I picked up years ago at the bodice neck. Cream lace parasol from Loren of Costumer's Closet in a purge she did years ago, and black velvet reticule by VeryVictorianStudio. American Duchess 'Balmorals' in black finished the look!

All my photos from The Big Bustle Birthday Bash are here. A lovely day of fun, thank you, Carolyn!