Sunday, September 25, 2016

Sewing kit or 'housewife' FUN with kits - Embroidered Bees and More

Late 18th and early 19th century Sewing Kits or 'Housewives' were made for women or men to carry both sewing supplies (to fix on the go) and also to carry jewelry or money. Here is an example extant version from Winterthur.

Inspired by lovely extant examples and the great use of something like this for someone like me who loves to bring a small sewing bag with me for getting a bit of sewing done 'on the go,' I decided to make one of these last year.

I recently finished another Sewing Kit or 'Housewife' a la 18th/19th century, burgundy silk brocade with embroidered gold bees, trimmed with mustard and gold silk. I used leftovers from my recent court robe, made bias binding for the kit and then hand sewed it all together: it was a lot of fun! I can't wait to use this to store needles, pins, scissors, thread and more!
Embroidered Bees Silk 'Housewife' by TheLadyDetalle
Finished Insides of Sewing Kit

Finished Sewing Kit or 'Housewife' Example

Sample SEWING KIT 'Housewife' by TheLadyDetalle
Here's a link to the original Sewing Kit 'Housewife' I made last year. It was a fun and quick hand sewing project, and I use it ALL the time when I bring sewing with me, so I decided to make myself another one or two (*smile*).

Then I thought, 'hey, maybe others would be interested in a pattern for one." and "hey, I have some great fabrics on hand that I can make up some lovely and unique kits with", so I created 20 kits with pattern instructions so folks can sew their own 18th/19th century Sewing Kit 'Housewife'. I have to admit, I enjoyed cutting it all out, coordinating fabrics and colors, being creative and putting the kits together and making all the binding.

KITS for making up your own Sewing Kits and Pattern Instructions are available now on Etsy, as well as Sewing Kit 'Housewife' Pattern instructions on Etsy available as a digital download.

I hope you are inspired to make your own 18th/19th century sewing kit or have already made one!
Comment here to share your plans or questions.

Happy SEWING!

Friday, September 9, 2016

A quick sewing project to post - quick garment cover

I recently took some thin, lightweight cotton from the stash and made a quick garment bag cover for my Napoleonic bees court ensemble: it was quick to throw together, just sewed both sides together, then cut and sewed a hole in the top to go over the hangar (and left the bottom open to fit over the court robe). A quick useful sewing project:
Quick cotton garment bag/cover
I'm happy that now I have something protecting the court robe a bit!

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Late 18th century black silk petticoat - July (Late) Monochrome HSM Challenge

For July's Monochrome challenge, I made a late 18th century black silk ruffled petticoat, the first piece of a black and white ensemble I'm making for an event in October. Here is the finished petticoat! This is a late finish challenge, started and finished in August, as I'm behind in HSM challenges and now trying to catch up! 
Black silk petticoat w/ pleated ruffle
Historical Sew Monthly JULY challenge:



The Challenge: Monochrome - make a garment in black, white, or any shade of grey in between. 

Material: Black silk taffeta from Pure Silks/Exclusive Silks in India - 3 yards

Pattern: I've made these so many times, I don't follow a pattern anymore: I measure how long I want the petticoat (how many inches) double it, cut in half, put selvedge to selvedge, and then sew together the sides starting 11" down (for pocket slits). Then pleat to a waistband, the add ties, then hem or add a ruffle or bias ruffle gathered at the bottom via gathers or pleats. Voila! The original basic directions of how to do a basic (unruffled) petticoat was from J.P. Ryan pattern I used years ago.

Year: late 18th century

Notions: None, the ties are self fabric.

How historically accurate is it? By look, yes, reasonably: but it's a combination of machine and hand sewing, mostly machine, so...

Hours to complete: An hour to cut out, pin and sew the side seams, another two hours to pleat then re-pleat and sew together, another hour to cut out ruffle, sew gathering stitch, then gathering threads broke, so then I pleated the ruffle by hand. Probably 6 all together.

First worn: Not yet worn: part of a black and white ensemble for an event in October.

Total cost: Black silk taffeta was from the stash, so yay. Paid $18/yard I think. 

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Etsy shop update - TheLadyDetalle on Etsy (and a coupon)

Recently I did a big de-stash of fabric and antique/vintage things, and thus have been adding lots of listings to my Etsy store, TheLadyDetalle!

Hooded cape PATTERN
by TheLadyDetalle
I have way, way too much fabric in my stash (and opps! I continue to buy more when I find gorgeous fabric at great prices, thus you all can benefit from this too!), so it's time for me to share all the things, so I recently posted: silk fabric, my new hooded cape pattern, a few sari's/saree's, silk cotton blend fabric, crystal candlesticks, a Marie Antoinette embroidered silk muff, embroidered purple muff, and other fun things!

I'm really enjoying the Etsy shop, and being able to share things through the store with others. It's exciting when people purchase supplies in my shop like fabric and then share what they made with it: it's very inspiring!

Please check these new things, just recently made (embroidered muffs) or listed:


Please use this coupon: "COCO16PEB" for 20% off your next purchase through 9/30. Enjoy!

Dark and medium brown SILK sari
Marie Antoinette Embroidered Muffs:Medium Lavender Embroidered silk &Cream Embroidered silk w/ black silk ribbon
Cream Embroidered flower silk w/ black silk ribbon withMarie Antoinette portrait - Muff by TheLadyDetalle

Daguerreotype Victorian Lady
Medium blue silk dupioni
Green chandelier earring pair vintage


Also please visit my other Etsy shop, Regency Tea, for customer favorites: Sticky Toffee Pudding, Cream Earl Grey & Chocolate Vanilla Mint

Saturday, August 20, 2016

18th Century seafoam blue wool hooded cape - June (Posting LATE) HSM Travel Challenge

For June's HSM challenge of TRAVEL, I made a late 18th century seafoam blue wool hooded cape! I was on a mission to get a wool cape done for another example for my Costume College class, so I made this hooded cape in June!  (Posted late).
Seafoam blue hooded cape by TheLadyDetalle

Back of wool hooded cape
Front of wool hooded cape

Historical Sew Monthly JUNE challenge:






The Challenge: Travel - make a garment for travelling, or inspired by travel.

Material: Seafoam blue fine wool from 96th District Fabrics and linen from Fabric-Store.com for lining

Pattern: My new TheLadyDetalle Hooded Cape Pattern now available on Etsy!

Year: late 18th century

Notions: N/A

How historically accurate is it? Very! All hand sewn except the staystitch I did inside to hold the fashion and lining together until I hand sewed it together using the bias binding. The material is what they would have had at the time, wool and linen. The colors are period appropriate, and the shape is period appropriate, based on garments like these.

Hours to complete: An hour to cut out and staystitch, an hour to make bias binding and pin on. A few hours to sew binding on, pleat to fit neckline and hood, and finishing work. Probably 5-6 total. I have made a few of these now, so I'm getting a little faster.

First worn: Not yet worn: made as an example for my Costume College limited class, "Winter Wear - Hooded Cape Workshop" taught a few weeks ago!

Total cost: The fine seafoam blue wool was bought at Fort Fred Market Fair earlier this year: $9 a yard. (Used about 3+ yards). Linen lining was about $8-9 a yard, and used about 3 yards). So roughly $50. And I have some big leftover fabric pieces to use to make accessories and other things!

TheLadyDetalle Hooded Cape Pattern

Regency Napoleonic Open Court Robe - April (Late) 'Gender-Bender' HSM challenge

For April's 'Gender-Bender' challenge, I made a Napoleonic bee open court robe, which reflects the heavy influence of men and the politics of the day on women's dress. During this part of the Regency era, Napoleon used the bee as a symbol of his strength, reign and power. Thus 'Napoleonic' bees became a part of ladies court wear: it was worn by Empress Josephine, a fashion leader of the day, the Emperor Napoleon himself, the royal family and a few favored members of his court. I made the bee open court robe in April, but trimmed it in June. 

Below the lovely red silk brocade splurge in order to make this fun outfit!
Red silk brocade with embroidered gold bees
Napoleonic bees open court robe - in progress



Historical Sew Monthly APRIL challenge:






The Challenge: Gender-Bender – make an item for the opposite gender, or make an item with elements inspired by the fashions of the opposite gender. 

Material: Red silk brocade with gold Napoleonic bees, a narrow 30" wide

Pattern: Butterick 4890

Year: Napoleonic era court robe about 1804-1807

Notions: Matching belt of same fabric. Bronze gold metal trim on both the open court robe and the belt.

How historically accurate is it? It's patterned after the shape and seam placement of the court robes of the era as far as I can tell (I am not an expert, not having seen extant garments in person, but have looked at them online and fashion plates of the time). The trains can be very wide to very narrow, and medium to extremely long. The fabric I believe is as close to period appropriate as possible. I machine sewed the long seams and hand finished and did hand sewn trim.

Hours to complete: I was about half a day in cutting it out, since I was super careful in cutting with wasting the least amount of fabric, in order to save the most possible of what was remaining. The fabric was only 30" wide, so it was quite difficult to cut out, and I had to piece on the two side train pieces. Also took a long time to sew together, sew in a lining, hem and create the belt, add the bronze gold metal trim. I lost track, but I'd say this was probably about 30 hours altogether.

First worn: Worn to the Gala this year at Costume College in July 2016, with an embroidered court gown underneath!

Total cost: Er, um, this fabric cost waaaaaay too much. I searched for silk bee fabric for a court ensemble for years: I was looking for black with gold bees or purple or royal blue with gold bees, but burgundy with gold bees is what I could find finally, so red it was! It was $33/yard. Lining fabric was stash, and trim inexpensive. Totally worth it, I'm so happy with the finished court robe!

Napoleonic era 'bees' open court robe by TheLadyDetalle
'Bees, Bees, Bees'

Edwardian white lace Gibson Girl blouse - May (Posting Late) Holes HSM Challenge

For May's HSM Challenge, Holes, I made an Edwardian white lace Gibson Girl blouse. I'm late posting, and this was worked on in April-June. I made this to wear to a friend's summer Seaside party, but I ended up wearing a store bought Edwardian bathing suit instead (it was so much cooler in the summer heat). Here is the finished Gibson Girl blouse, with lace inserts and other holes in the garment!
White lace Gibson Girl blouse by TheLadyDetalle
Historical Sew Monthly MAY challenge:






The Challenge: Holes – sometimes the spaces between stuff are what makes a garment special.  Make a garment that is about holes, whether it is lace, slashing, eyelets, etc.

Material: White dotted swiss cotton

Pattern: Folkwear 'Gibson Girl blouse'

Year: Turn of the century Edwardian Gibson Girl

Notions: White lace (with lots of holes!)

How historically accurate is it? I'm not an expert in this era, but it looks period appropriate to me. It was machine sewn, which Edwardians had. I used a pattern from Folkwear for a Gibson Girl blouse that my mom had in her stash.

Hours to complete: About two hours to cut out, read the pattern and prep. Probably a good 6+ hours to sew together, since I messed up a few things and picked some seams and re-did. This is the product of rushing and sewing while tired, late in the evening, lol!

First worn: Not yet worn: made in May/June to wear in June, but ended up going with another outfit so will wear this in future!

Total cost: The white dotted swiss cotton and lace used was from my mom's stash, so free!
View of the back - Gibson Girl blouse