Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Costume College 2018 ensemble preview

Costume College 2018
Here's a preview picture of my ensembles for Costume College 2018!

I'll be posting more info and pictures soon,

Thursday, August 2, 2018

Early Regency Sleeveless BEE Triangle Spencer and Mustard Apron Front Gown - July Sleeves HSM Challenge

For July's "Sleeves" challenge, I decided to focus on the use of sleeves worn underneath and the lack of sleeves in a spencer, as an example of a historical sleeves style. I created a 1798-1800 sleeveless BEE spencer with triangle trim and an early Regency mustard cotton apron-front gown, handsewn.
Mustard apron-front Regeny gown & silk brocade
BEE triangle sleeveless spencer
photo by InTheLongRunDesigns
JulySleeves: There are some amazing examples of historical sleeves styles out there. Put the focus on the arms and shoulders in your creation for this challenge.
IG #HSM2018JulProgress (for works in progress) and #HSM2018Jul (for your finished item)

How it fits the challenge: For this challenge, I focused on arms and shoulders, and the LACK OF sleeves for a subset of Regency spencers, showcasing the sleeves of the gown worn under the spencer instead. Sleeveless spencers seem to be especially popular during the late transition in the last few years of the 1790's and into the first few years of the 1800's. Sleeveless spencers puts the focus on the sleeves of the gown underneath, which was the intention for this outfit: my mustard apron-front Regency gown sleeves showcased from under.

Material: Sleeveless spencer: burgundy and gold BEE silk brocade (leftover from my 2016 gala BEE open court robe). Mustard gold silk taffeta for binding all edges. Mustard apron-front gown: mustard striped design cotton from Treadle (quilt shop in MN), bit of white cotton muslin for under bodice pieces. 

Pattern: Sleeveless spencer: Draped by TheLady Detalle. I draped and drafted 4 muslin mockups until I was happy with the fit. I referenced fashion plates from 1798-1800 for sleeveless spencer examples and sleeveless spencers with triangle trim, and also referenced the sleeveless spencer and pattern example from the DAR "An Agreeable Tyrant" book for ideas on shapes to try to improve the fit in-progress. Mustard apron-front gown: was draped by myself and partner during a Burnley & Trowbridge workshop last May. 

Year: 1798-1800

Notions: white cotton twill tape for apron front ties from Burnley & Trowbridge

How historically accurate is it? Sleeveless spencer: I hand sewed everything visible and machined the main seams as well as zig zagged all edges of the silk brocade as this fabric frays like crazy. All finishing work done by hand. Mustard apron-front gown: 100% hand sewn, Angela Burnley contributed hand sewing the two sides' pocket slit seams during the workshop ;). 

Hours to complete: Sleeveless spencer: it was a few days of a couple hours a day to make up the pattern and different mockups for fit. It was a few hours to cut it all out (strategically and carefully). It was another couple of hours to machine sew the main portion and zig zag all the unfinished edges. It was another couple of hours to plan and cut and pin/sew on the bee triangle trim (VanDyke trim), and then another few hours to hand sew all the finished edges with ironed mustard silk taffeta binding. Mustard apron-front gown: I worked on the gown sewing the entire B&T weekend (including in the evenings), Angela Burnley's time hand sewing the two sides' pocket slit seams help, and then spent another few days (spread out) to hand sew the remaining work on the gown. 

First worn: Saturday day at Costume College this year

Total cost: All STASH! Sleeveless spencer: The fabric was leftover from my "Bees, Bees, Bees" Napoleonic open court robe made for Costume College Gala 2016. I wanted to use up as little fabric as possible for this spencer as the fabric was $$ and I can use the remainder to make something else. I started by cutting my pieces from large leftover scraps, and managed to get all but one piece of the spencer body from the scraps! I then cut the final front piece and the triangle trim from the yardage. I added mustard gold silk taffeta binding to finish the edges, also stash. Mustard apron-front gown: stash! I picked this up from Treadle Quilt Shop in MN a few years ago.

I was very excited to wear the finished outfit at Costume College, and made my bee jewelry parure to wear with it!

Gown & sleeveless spencer and hair by me. Pineapple reticule (commission). Vintage mustard & black silk dupatta, vintage 1950's German gold wreath tiara, Josphine gold & black BEES necklace & matching earrings by LadyDetalle on Etsy

Thursday, June 21, 2018

1872 summer cotton bustle - June Historical Sew Monthly Challenge

What the item is: 1872 pleated cotton summer bustle gown
1872 white dotted swiss cotton
summer bustle by TheLadyDetalle
JuneRebellion and Counter-Culture: Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.

How it fits the challenge: 
During the later part of the 19th century, Victorian fashion migrated from the large hoop shapes of the mid 19th century 1850's and 1860's (Civil War and after), to the gradually narrowing shapes of the 1870's bustles. 1870's metal bustles used less metal support than earlier hoops, and they also used other material like horsehair, and layers and layers of ruffles underneath to create the look. Light summery  bustles like the early 1870's pleated cotton summer bustle I made (based on extants and fashion plates from 1870-1872) , were often worn at the seaside and were considered more daring and even at times "fringe" to society, rebellious in their own way with their light fluffy layers and often semi sheer or sheer cotton. 

Material: white dotted swiss cotton, semi sheer

Pattern: 1870 Trained Skirt Ensemble TV208 and 1872 Vest Basque TV405
Underneath is a Victorian corset made by Historical Designs on Etsy, my TV wire bustle and two TV ruffled silk petticoats. 

Year: 1870-1872

Notions: interfacing and boning for bodice, it needs buttons/fastenings yet

How historically accurate is it? Very. It was machine sewn (appropriate for the time), using Truly Victorian patterns, with all the appropriate foundation garments for support. I ran out of time to add buttons or fastenings, so it was pinned on. Pleated hems on trained skirt and apron front. 

Hours to complete: Many. I'm not great at keeping track, lol. I started in late May and worked on it sporadically on weekends and as I could grab some time weeknights. I stayed up really late the night before finishing the bodice and pleated hem.

First worn: this past Saturday to a friend's Victorian "At the Races" lawn party. I paired this with vintage seed pearl earrings & ribbon necklace from LadyDetalle on Etsy, and a white summer "floofy" hat I pinned together quickly two days before (previously I had wired it and covered the bottom and brims with cream silk, intending it for use for another era). 

Total cost: All STASH! The fabric was Jomar $2 a yard and I used approximately 14 yards. More yards coming as I'll add more pleats and trim in future (I ran out of time: I was starching and ironing pleats until 1:00 am the night before the event). Bodice boning and interfacing was stash.

This was a really fun summer bustle project that I've been thinking about doing for ages, and it was finally time! Have you made a summer bustle yet? What are your thoughts on the "rebellious" summer bustle trend?

New summer bustle first worn to a friend's
"At the Races" themed lawn picnic
Bustle "butt" silliness with Judy

Pinching and pleating yards and yards of pleats,
using heavy starch and my iron! 
Link to event album on Flickr (still uploading photos!).

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Introducing ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle


ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

A collection of reproduction historic jewelry, designed for ROYAL wear.

Royal You is reproduction historic jewelry designed for fancy dress or costuming royalty or nobility of English, French or European court focusing on the 18th & 19th centuries. Great for historic events, re-enactments, trips to Versailles, Jane Austen balls or modern wear, this line will be focused on fun designs and historic detail!
 ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

"JOSEPHINE" Black & Gold BEES:

The first released design of ROYAL YOU, "Josephine" necklace featuring Jet Black Swarovski crystals and gold BEES in graduated fashion, with optional matching earrings. Top connected gold-plated settings and an extender chain for great fit: truly a necklace fit for royalty and Napoleonic Court! Available now on LadyDetalle on Etsy.

"JOSEPHINE" from the ROYAL YOU collection by LadyDetalle
This necklace is meant to worn at the neck but can be extended down, truly a necklace fit for the royalty or nobility of the English, French or European court of the early 19th century Regency NAPOLEONIC era. The stones are a lovely solid JET black Swarovski crystal and BEE design. Great for historic events, re-enactments, or modern wear.

Stay tuned for more ROYAL YOU designs coming soon!

Monday, May 28, 2018

Costume College sewing and class progress

I'm making progress on my Costume College sewing: it's a bit slow going, but I'm getting there.

Costume College sewing:
-Class prep
-Regency square hat
-Regency sleeveless spencer
-Gala jewelry - custom settings arrived and waiting time to set stones and make my necklace/earrings
-Gala gown, Regency - fabric ordered and on its way, settling design styling now
-1870's light blue silk under petticoat - done, but plan to add a detachable train
-1870's trained bustle skirt together - needs pleated hem added and hem stiffener
-1870's basque bodice

I'm so excited, I made all my own jewelry for Costume College this year! It was kind of a crazy challenge, but I learned so much, and now I'm really really enjoying my re-visit to jewelry making since I last made a lot of my own jewelry about a decade ago, and now I've learned how to set stones, make necklaces and other fun stuff.

-Thursday night pool party: black lace Downton style dress with vintage silk red/yellow fire shawl and fire opal Swarovski parure: necklace, earrings, bracelets - DONE
-Friday day: 1880's Victorian blue plaid silk day bustle and blue Swarovski parure jewelry - re-wear, plus new jewelry parure - DONE
-Friday night social: 1880's teal and gold silk evening bustle from two sari's and Swarovski parure - DONE (if there's time, I'll add some gold edging to the apron)
-Saturday day: Regency mustard apron front gown (B&T workshop, 90% complete) with sleeveless bee spencer & square hat and bee jewelry parure (jewelry done) - In Progress
-Saturday gala: Regency royals attire and parure...shhhhhh....;) - In Progress
-Sunday day: 1870's Dress of Wrong bustle of 18thc "Victorian women" (lol) fashion plate fabric - In Progress

I've also been prepping for the class I'm teaching at CoCo, "Gold in Detail...soooooo much to get done, it's coming all too soon! How's your sewing going?

Monday, April 9, 2018

GOLD in DETAIL: 2018 Costume College - Limited class

Hey everyone,
I'm so excited to share, I offered and was accepted to teach one class at Costume College this year:
GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Friday: 3:00pm-5:00pm
2 Hrs Limited
Level: Intermediate
Fee: $25
Teacher: TheLady Detalle

GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Add some sparkly gold detail to your next project! Come join us for a workshop that will introduce you to the wonderful world of gold work -- an embroidery skill perfect for detailing special occasion gowns and accessories from any century! We will go over the basics of couching gold work (gold passing), embroidery skills, how to properly work with, start, sew and finish, some sources, inspiration and practice. Each student will create their own goldwork sampler, practicing the proper methods. Goldwork can be used in embroidery samplers, in accessories or to add stunning detail to a reproduction historical gown creation Come join in the fun!

Teacher provides: Handouts and Goldwork Kit: Gold passing, Thread, Embroidery Needle, Fabric w/ design

Student provides: Required: small embroidery scissors, thimble, wax, and an embroidery hoop size 8”. Highly recommend an embroidery SEAT frame hoop for best results (both hands free) — Elbesee is good brand,. (Please note: must be 8” hoop - other sizes will not fit the design/fabric). Highly recommend bringing small pointed end tweezers if you have them.

I'm still designing the class sampler, but we'll do embroidery goldwork in something similar to this in size: perfect to make into a reticule or to frame and hang on the wall.
Class details in Costume College
2018 Book
Goldwork embroidery - gold couching
Please do join in the FUN as we learn basic Goldwork hand embroidery skills!
What I love about basic 'gold couching' Goldwork is it's a quick win in embroidery: add some stunning bling more quickly than hand embroidery's lovely stitches, or you can add some gold couching with some regular embroidery: this is a great technique for accessories, stomachers, and even full gowns!

I hope to see you at Costume College 2018!
TheLady Detalle

Wednesday, February 28, 2018

The Grape Collection - available now or coming soon to LadyDetalle

I'm SO excited to share this with you all, I've been working furiously for the past few months on designing and sourcing supplies to make available a line of historically appropriate GRAPE jewelry!!

Grape jewelry was popular throughout history (I've found extant examples from as early as Roman 1st-4th century) - some gorgeous Georgian and Regency examples also, although grape jewelry seems to very popular throughout the Victorian era!

Here's a PREVIEW of the early "The GRAPE Collection" by LadyDetalle on Etsy:
Some styles available now in limited quantities and some styles coming soon!
"The GRAPE Collection" by LadyDetalle on Etsy

Be sure to follow me on Facebook or follow me on Instagram if you're interested in early news!

I'm currently designing a few other styles and working on some historic backing options (lever backs, loops, non pierced, etc.) so if you have any special requests or suggestions, I'd love to hear them, just comment below!