Saturday, December 8, 2018

Historical Sources Holiday Gift Guide

Hey everyone!
I always get so excited when I start seeing annual gift giving guides: it's so much fun to see the various businesses grow and change over the years! There's so many wonderful businesses that cater to the historical costuming, re-enacting and cosplay communities, and in addition there are some great small businesses that provide quality supplies to these (and other) communities!

I decided to join in this year with a small Historical Sources Holiday Gift Guide introducing a few of my personal favorite sources where you can find great items this holiday season! Here's a short list of some of my go-to's for ready-made accessories, jewelry, supplies, fabric, silk ribbon, vintage and more!
1-InTheLongRun, 2-Hatsperiod, 3-LadyDetalle, 4-Historical
Designs, 5-1800'sMillineryShop, 6-Queen&Cavendish

Millinery and Foundations:
1800s Millinery Shop - limited shop stock selection, though this mother/daughter combo create beautiful Regency thru Victorian bonnets, and do custom commissions when they have time
Hatsperiod - Jane's Georgian and Victorian perchers are to-die-for, and this lovely British costumer blocks her hats then decorates them with vintage and antique buckles, Papilionaceous silk ribbons and delicious feathers & flowers
Historical Designs - lovely and affordable corsets and stays, shifts, etc. from helpful shop owner Beth - plan ahead as her corset commission schedule is planned months out

Historic Jewelry and Accessories:
Queen And Cavendish - blingly bling jewelry, get some sparkly glam here from the lovely Kim! (currently listed as closed until Jan)
IntheLongRun - elegant, affordable designs from talented photographer and costumer/cosplayer Gloria
Bohemian Belle - Regency customer commissions and custom-dyed accessories plus a bit of everything - beautiful work and run by the lovely Julia in Europe
Sign of the Gray Horse - wide variety of lovely jewelry & accessories from Kim Walters and supporting rescue horses
LadyDetalle - and of course, my shop (*smile*), historic jewelry & accessories with a mission of supporting Historic Design & Detail - I'm having so much FUN with my historic jewelry line, including The Grape Collection, Royal You, Royal Bees, Victorian chandeliers & mourning, a huge variety in PEARLS, rhinestones, and so much more! I'm wearing my jewelry designs daily and so inspired by all the lovely antique examples and portraits/fashion plates to keep designing more! (I also sell ready-made reticules, portrait muffs, LD original patterns, some supplies and vintage sari & dupatta)
1-BohemianBelle, 2-VeryVictorianStudio, 3-RegencyTea,
4-Garibalid'sNeedleWorks, 5-LadyDetalle, 6-RoyalVintage

Sewing patterns, fabric and supplies:
Truly Victorian - Victorian patterns that are easy to follow, go together well, and Heather is helpful and responsive if you hit a snag and have a question
96th district fabric - my go-to for coutil, and also wool, silk and silk ribbons - they are on my "must" list at Fort Frederick Market Fair every year
Burnley & Trowbridge - my go-to for my well-stocked basics like twill tape (white, black, etc. in mulitple sizes), wax, and linen thread, in addition to wool and silk fabrics, and a handkerchief line that is droolworthy
FabricMartFabrics - keep an eye out for their amazing silk deals from time to time, where you can pick up stripes, plaids and checked silk taffeta for $8-12 a yard
Fabric-Store - my go-to for linen fabric, their selection of colors is impressive and their quality is great
SilkyWay - I've been purchasing silk ribbons from this supplier for years: quality, affordable and Anna is great to work with.
TheSewingPlace- my go-to for Petersham ribbon: huge variety in widths and colors

RSN - worthy of a mention: their mission is to keep traditional embroidery techniques alive, and they offer multiple certificate and day courses across the globe, and also have a great gift shop and online store
Garibaldis Needle Works - great source for goldwork supplies, especially their gold passing (they source it from the UK)
Sew Stine - this shop is taking a long break but Christine's machine embroidery digitizing is amazing and she's super great too
Romantic Recollections - Hand and machine embroidery designs from the lovely Denise

Vintage and Antique:
Very Victorian Studio - amazing deals on antique and vintage finds and also stocks some handmade historical hats, reticules, etc. (I carry reticules and sashes from Very Victorian in Lady Detalle) - Linda is super nice and responsive and is a long-time historical costumer herself
Southern Lady Estates - great finds at great deal prices and very responsive and helpful

Totally worth a mention: 
I also love these businesses for their outlook, dedication to historical accuracy AND fun, and how they provide encouragement to folks to join in our fun community! 
Historical Sewing - Jennifer makes it her mission to help others with sewing and creating their visions: she is so encouraging and super nice to boot!
TheDreamstress - I love her patterns and designs, and her Historical Sew Forthnightly/Monthly is spot on with encouraging folks to research and create: she's also a huge sweetheart!
If you're looking for a little girl's princess dress or awesome hard-to-find Harry Potter fabric, check out Lady Rebecca Fashions on Etsy

Also worth a mention, two small businesses that I haven't personally purchased from yet, but whom I love seeing their lovely creations (and plan to purchase in future):
Virgils Fine Goods - her tiny hand-rolled silk and linen hems on her Colonial and Georgian caps are lovely, all handmade by the lovely Amber
Shocking Bad Hats - gorgeous designs by Rebecca, each one is truly a treat for the eye! Some day I won't be able to control my

And lastly, my favorite item this holiday season:
Royal Vintage - this is my first purchase from the retro side of American Duchess, but I'm in love with the comfort and style of these Retro Aspen Winter boots in red - I just wish they were on sale!

And of course, I love to drink TEA while I sew! This is my tea brand, Regency Tea, visit for customer favorites Cream Earl Grey or Sticky Toffee Pudding!

This is definitely by no-means an all-inclusive list, but I hope that by sharing some of my favorites shops and sources with you, you'll get some new places to check to fill your historic costuming needs, or purchase a great gift for the historical costumer in your life!

I hope you enjoyed reading and Happy Holidays all!

TheLady Detalle

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Costume College 2018 ensemble preview

Costume College 2018
Here's a preview picture of my ensembles for Costume College 2018!

I'll be posting more info and pictures soon,

Thursday, August 2, 2018

Early Regency Sleeveless BEE Triangle Spencer and Mustard Apron Front Gown - July Sleeves HSM Challenge

For July's "Sleeves" challenge, I decided to focus on the use of sleeves worn underneath and the lack of sleeves in a spencer, as an example of a historical sleeves style. I created a 1798-1800 sleeveless BEE spencer with triangle trim and an early Regency mustard cotton apron-front gown, handsewn.
Mustard apron-front Regeny gown & silk brocade
BEE triangle sleeveless spencer
photo by InTheLongRunDesigns
JulySleeves: There are some amazing examples of historical sleeves styles out there. Put the focus on the arms and shoulders in your creation for this challenge.
IG #HSM2018JulProgress (for works in progress) and #HSM2018Jul (for your finished item)

How it fits the challenge: For this challenge, I focused on arms and shoulders, and the LACK OF sleeves for a subset of Regency spencers, showcasing the sleeves of the gown worn under the spencer instead. Sleeveless spencers seem to be especially popular during the late transition in the last few years of the 1790's and into the first few years of the 1800's. Sleeveless spencers puts the focus on the sleeves of the gown underneath, which was the intention for this outfit: my mustard apron-front Regency gown sleeves showcased from under.

Material: Sleeveless spencer: burgundy and gold BEE silk brocade (leftover from my 2016 gala BEE open court robe). Mustard gold silk taffeta for binding all edges. Mustard apron-front gown: mustard striped design cotton from Treadle (quilt shop in MN), bit of white cotton muslin for under bodice pieces. 

Pattern: Sleeveless spencer: Draped by TheLady Detalle. I draped and drafted 4 muslin mockups until I was happy with the fit. I referenced fashion plates from 1798-1800 for sleeveless spencer examples and sleeveless spencers with triangle trim, and also referenced the sleeveless spencer and pattern example from the DAR "An Agreeable Tyrant" book for ideas on shapes to try to improve the fit in-progress. Mustard apron-front gown: was draped by myself and partner during a Burnley & Trowbridge workshop last May. 

Year: 1798-1800

Notions: white cotton twill tape for apron front ties from Burnley & Trowbridge

How historically accurate is it? Sleeveless spencer: I hand sewed everything visible and machined the main seams as well as zig zagged all edges of the silk brocade as this fabric frays like crazy. All finishing work done by hand. Mustard apron-front gown: 100% hand sewn, Angela Burnley contributed hand sewing the two sides' pocket slit seams during the workshop ;). 

Hours to complete: Sleeveless spencer: it was a few days of a couple hours a day to make up the pattern and different mockups for fit. It was a few hours to cut it all out (strategically and carefully). It was another couple of hours to machine sew the main portion and zig zag all the unfinished edges. It was another couple of hours to plan and cut and pin/sew on the bee triangle trim (VanDyke trim), and then another few hours to hand sew all the finished edges with ironed mustard silk taffeta binding. Mustard apron-front gown: I worked on the gown sewing the entire B&T weekend (including in the evenings), Angela Burnley's time hand sewing the two sides' pocket slit seams help, and then spent another few days (spread out) to hand sew the remaining work on the gown. 

First worn: Saturday day at Costume College this year

Total cost: All STASH! Sleeveless spencer: The fabric was leftover from my "Bees, Bees, Bees" Napoleonic open court robe made for Costume College Gala 2016. I wanted to use up as little fabric as possible for this spencer as the fabric was $$ and I can use the remainder to make something else. I started by cutting my pieces from large leftover scraps, and managed to get all but one piece of the spencer body from the scraps! I then cut the final front piece and the triangle trim from the yardage. I added mustard gold silk taffeta binding to finish the edges, also stash. Mustard apron-front gown: stash! I picked this up from Treadle Quilt Shop in MN a few years ago.

I was very excited to wear the finished outfit at Costume College, and made my bee jewelry parure to wear with it!

Gown & sleeveless spencer and hair by me. Pineapple reticule (commission). Vintage mustard & black silk dupatta, vintage 1950's German gold wreath tiara, Josphine gold & black BEES necklace & matching earrings by LadyDetalle on Etsy

Thursday, June 21, 2018

1872 summer cotton bustle - June Historical Sew Monthly Challenge

What the item is: 1872 pleated cotton summer bustle gown
1872 white dotted swiss cotton
summer bustle by TheLadyDetalle
JuneRebellion and Counter-Culture: Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.

How it fits the challenge: 
During the later part of the 19th century, Victorian fashion migrated from the large hoop shapes of the mid 19th century 1850's and 1860's (Civil War and after), to the gradually narrowing shapes of the 1870's bustles. 1870's metal bustles used less metal support than earlier hoops, and they also used other material like horsehair, and layers and layers of ruffles underneath to create the look. Light summery  bustles like the early 1870's pleated cotton summer bustle I made (based on extants and fashion plates from 1870-1872) , were often worn at the seaside and were considered more daring and even at times "fringe" to society, rebellious in their own way with their light fluffy layers and often semi sheer or sheer cotton. 

Material: white dotted swiss cotton, semi sheer

Pattern: 1870 Trained Skirt Ensemble TV208 and 1872 Vest Basque TV405
Underneath is a Victorian corset made by Historical Designs on Etsy, my TV wire bustle and two TV ruffled silk petticoats. 

Year: 1870-1872

Notions: interfacing and boning for bodice, it needs buttons/fastenings yet

How historically accurate is it? Very. It was machine sewn (appropriate for the time), using Truly Victorian patterns, with all the appropriate foundation garments for support. I ran out of time to add buttons or fastenings, so it was pinned on. Pleated hems on trained skirt and apron front. 

Hours to complete: Many. I'm not great at keeping track, lol. I started in late May and worked on it sporadically on weekends and as I could grab some time weeknights. I stayed up really late the night before finishing the bodice and pleated hem.

First worn: this past Saturday to a friend's Victorian "At the Races" lawn party. I paired this with vintage seed pearl earrings & ribbon necklace from LadyDetalle on Etsy, and a white summer "floofy" hat I pinned together quickly two days before (previously I had wired it and covered the bottom and brims with cream silk, intending it for use for another era). 

Total cost: All STASH! The fabric was Jomar $2 a yard and I used approximately 14 yards. More yards coming as I'll add more pleats and trim in future (I ran out of time: I was starching and ironing pleats until 1:00 am the night before the event). Bodice boning and interfacing was stash.

This was a really fun summer bustle project that I've been thinking about doing for ages, and it was finally time! Have you made a summer bustle yet? What are your thoughts on the "rebellious" summer bustle trend?

New summer bustle first worn to a friend's
"At the Races" themed lawn picnic
Bustle "butt" silliness with Judy

Pinching and pleating yards and yards of pleats,
using heavy starch and my iron! 
Link to event album on Flickr (still uploading photos!).

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Introducing ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle


ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

A collection of reproduction historic jewelry, designed for ROYAL wear.

Royal You is reproduction historic jewelry designed for fancy dress or costuming royalty or nobility of English, French or European court focusing on the 18th & 19th centuries. Great for historic events, re-enactments, trips to Versailles, Jane Austen balls or modern wear, this line will be focused on fun designs and historic detail!
 ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

"JOSEPHINE" Black & Gold BEES:

The first released design of ROYAL YOU, "Josephine" necklace featuring Jet Black Swarovski crystals and gold BEES in graduated fashion, with optional matching earrings. Top connected gold-plated settings and an extender chain for great fit: truly a necklace fit for royalty and Napoleonic Court! Available now on LadyDetalle on Etsy.

"JOSEPHINE" from the ROYAL YOU collection by LadyDetalle
This necklace is meant to worn at the neck but can be extended down, truly a necklace fit for the royalty or nobility of the English, French or European court of the early 19th century Regency NAPOLEONIC era. The stones are a lovely solid JET black Swarovski crystal and BEE design. Great for historic events, re-enactments, or modern wear.

Stay tuned for more ROYAL YOU designs coming soon!

Monday, May 28, 2018

Costume College sewing and class progress

I'm making progress on my Costume College sewing: it's a bit slow going, but I'm getting there.

Costume College sewing:
-Class prep
-Regency square hat
-Regency sleeveless spencer
-Gala jewelry - custom settings arrived and waiting time to set stones and make my necklace/earrings
-Gala gown, Regency - fabric ordered and on its way, settling design styling now
-1870's light blue silk under petticoat - done, but plan to add a detachable train
-1870's trained bustle skirt together - needs pleated hem added and hem stiffener
-1870's basque bodice

I'm so excited, I made all my own jewelry for Costume College this year! It was kind of a crazy challenge, but I learned so much, and now I'm really really enjoying my re-visit to jewelry making since I last made a lot of my own jewelry about a decade ago, and now I've learned how to set stones, make necklaces and other fun stuff.

-Thursday night pool party: black lace Downton style dress with vintage silk red/yellow fire shawl and fire opal Swarovski parure: necklace, earrings, bracelets - DONE
-Friday day: 1880's Victorian blue plaid silk day bustle and blue Swarovski parure jewelry - re-wear, plus new jewelry parure - DONE
-Friday night social: 1880's teal and gold silk evening bustle from two sari's and Swarovski parure - DONE (if there's time, I'll add some gold edging to the apron)
-Saturday day: Regency mustard apron front gown (B&T workshop, 90% complete) with sleeveless bee spencer & square hat and bee jewelry parure (jewelry done) - In Progress
-Saturday gala: Regency royals attire and parure...shhhhhh....;) - In Progress
-Sunday day: 1870's Dress of Wrong bustle of 18thc "Victorian women" (lol) fashion plate fabric - In Progress

I've also been prepping for the class I'm teaching at CoCo, "Gold in Detail...soooooo much to get done, it's coming all too soon! How's your sewing going?

Monday, April 9, 2018

GOLD in DETAIL: 2018 Costume College - Limited class

Hey everyone,
I'm so excited to share, I offered and was accepted to teach one class at Costume College this year:
GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Friday: 3:00pm-5:00pm
2 Hrs Limited
Level: Intermediate
Fee: $25
Teacher: TheLady Detalle

GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Add some sparkly gold detail to your next project! Come join us for a workshop that will introduce you to the wonderful world of gold work -- an embroidery skill perfect for detailing special occasion gowns and accessories from any century! We will go over the basics of couching gold work (gold passing), embroidery skills, how to properly work with, start, sew and finish, some sources, inspiration and practice. Each student will create their own goldwork sampler, practicing the proper methods. Goldwork can be used in embroidery samplers, in accessories or to add stunning detail to a reproduction historical gown creation Come join in the fun!

Teacher provides: Handouts and Goldwork Kit: Gold passing, Thread, Embroidery Needle, Fabric w/ design

Student provides: Required: small embroidery scissors, thimble, wax, and an embroidery hoop size 8”. Highly recommend an embroidery SEAT frame hoop for best results (both hands free) — Elbesee is good brand,. (Please note: must be 8” hoop - other sizes will not fit the design/fabric). Highly recommend bringing small pointed end tweezers if you have them.

I'm still designing the class sampler, but we'll do embroidery goldwork in something similar to this in size: perfect to make into a reticule or to frame and hang on the wall.
Class details in Costume College
2018 Book
Goldwork embroidery - gold couching
Please do join in the FUN as we learn basic Goldwork hand embroidery skills!
What I love about basic 'gold couching' Goldwork is it's a quick win in embroidery: add some stunning bling more quickly than hand embroidery's lovely stitches, or you can add some gold couching with some regular embroidery: this is a great technique for accessories, stomachers, and even full gowns!

I hope to see you at Costume College 2018!
TheLady Detalle