1872 summer cotton bustle - June Historical Sew Monthly Challenge

What the item is: 1872 pleated cotton summer bustle gown

1872 white dotted swiss cotton
summer bustle by TheLadyDetalle

June: Rebellion and Counter-Culture: Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.

How it fits the challenge: 
During the later part of the 19th century, Victorian fashion migrated from the large hoop shapes of the mid 19th century 1850's and 1860's (Civil War and after), to the gradually narrowing shapes of the 1870's bustles. 1870's metal bustles used less metal support than earlier hoops, and they also used other material like horsehair, and layers and layers of ruffles underneath to create the look. Light summery  bustles like the early 1870's pleated cotton summer bustle I made (based on extants and fashion plates from 1870-1872) , were often worn at the seaside and were considered more daring and even at times "fringe" to society, rebellious in their own way with their light fluffy layers and often semi sheer or sheer cotton. 

Material: white dotted swiss cotton, semi sheer

Pattern: 1870 Trained Skirt Ensemble TV208 and 1872 Vest Basque TV405

Underneath is a Victorian corset made by Historical Designs on Etsy, my TV wire bustle and two TV ruffled silk petticoats. 

Year: 1870-1872

Notions: interfacing and boning for bodice, it needs buttons/fastenings yet

How historically accurate is it? Very. It was machine sewn (appropriate for the time), using Truly Victorian patterns, with all the appropriate foundation garments for support. I ran out of time to add buttons or fastenings, so it was pinned on. Pleated hems on trained skirt and apron front. 

Hours to complete: Many. I'm not great at keeping track, lol. I started in late May and worked on it sporadically on weekends and as I could grab some time weeknights. I stayed up really late the night before finishing the bodice and pleated hem.

First worn: this past Saturday to a friend's Victorian "At the Races" lawn party. I paired this with vintage seed pearl earrings & ribbon necklace from LadyDetalle on Etsy, and a white summer "floofy" hat I pinned together quickly two days before (previously I had wired it and covered the bottom and brims with cream silk, intending it for use for another era). 

Total cost: All STASH! The fabric was Jomar $2 a yard and I used approximately 14 yards. More yards coming as I'll add more pleats and trim in future (I ran out of time: I was starching and ironing pleats until 1:00 am the night before the event). Bodice boning and interfacing was stash.

This was a really fun summer bustle project that I've been thinking about doing for ages, and it was finally time! Have you made a summer bustle yet? What are your thoughts on the "rebellious" summer bustle trend?

New summer bustle first worn to a friend's
"At the Races" themed lawn picnic

Bustle "butt" silliness with Judy

Pinching and pleating yards and yards of pleats,
using heavy starch and my iron! 

Link to event album on Flickr (still uploading photos!).

New project: making a bustle from two sari's

I recently started a new sewing project, my second Victorian bustle dress, mid to late 1880's, using two matching dark teal green BLUE silk Sari's. The sari/saree's are solid lightweight silk with gold metallic embroidery edging and the pallu end has a wavy metallic gold embroidery design and fringe ends.

Victorian BUSTLE gown from 2 Sari's - In progress

Fabric is stash, added this past spring from a friend's costumer yard sale, so basically she de-stashed to me and now I'm using it! Patterns: TV460 Curaiss Bodice, with TV261 Four-Gore Underskirt, with TV305 Apron Overskirt.

I'm sharing an in-progress picture here of the underskirt, although it's still partially pinned at the top back and bottom sides, it shows the in-progress skirt. I attached one of the pallu ends on the bottom as a train. I'm almost done with the apron overskirt, and then I'll need to sew the bodice, trim, as well as finish the underskirt.

This project was originally intended for a costumer friend's Victorian Christmas Tea next weekend that is being postponed/re-scheduled. I'm looking forward to finishing it and wearing it to that or another event: having fun with bustles! Has anyone else ever tried making a bustle using sari's?

The Last Csar Dinner

My husband and I attended a private event this past weekend, The Last Csar Dinner in the Philly suburbs, a themed Russian Court dinner around the years of 1894-1917. I made a 1898 evening/court gown out of a dark burnt 'brick' (lol) red orange silk taffeta from my stash, using TV490 evening bodice and TV297 flared skirt patterns. My bodice is boned and I'm wearing my late Victorian corset, and an underskirt made up in the same TV297 pattern of a thick vintage cotton plaid. My husband's black wool military jacket was purchased/made from a seller in England and I added a few embroideries and his sash and 'royal orders.'

Here's a picture of the Last Csar Dinner group photo!

The Last Csar Dinner - November 2017

We had an amazing time, a sit down dinner of delicious food: I chose the soup special (cauliflower and feta cheese), filet mignon, and a pumpkin mousse tart!

Last Csar Dinner, my husband and I 

My dress was finished in about two weeks (since I was frantically sewing for another event right before this one, I'll post on that soon). I was originally planning on adding sleeves (Russian style court sleeves were planned but I ran out of time so I may add those for a later wearing). My 1898 evening/court gown is sleeveless and finished with a vintage fur, and lots of bling!

We had such a fun evening!

Trying to look regal (but my hair is hiding
my tiara, lol)

Tiara with matching necklace and earrings set, extra long and long real pearl necklaces are LadyDetalle on Etsy, as are my matching real pearl bracelets. Catherine the Great crown bow order by Etsy seller Queen & Cavendish, and I made our 'bee orders' as well as our other orders either I made or bought/made, along with matching silk sashes. I wore my black 'Balmoral' boots by American Duchess. Hair by me using a half wig of brown curls and a touch of extra hair underneath for support.

I didn't get very many pictures since I was having such a great time, but the ones I did get are here.

The evening went by so quickly, but we had an amazing and truly lovely weekend: thank you, Judy!