White and Black late 18th century jacket - October 'Heroes' HSM Challenge

For October's 'Heroes' challenge I made a white & black silk late 18th century jacket and black silk sash to go with my black silk petticoat. 

One of my costuming acquaintance friends, Merja, made a lovely white with black trim late 18th century gown a few years ago, (I believe inspired by one worn in a drawing of Marie Antoinette), and I was inspired by Merja's exquisite detail and work (she is one of my costuming 'heroes') to make a white late 18th century jacket trimmed in black when I was invited to a costume friend's black and white party! 

October's 'Hero' HSM challenge - a white and black
silk late 1770's jacket and black sash

Historical Sew Monthly OCTOBER challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Heroes - Make a garment inspired by your historical hero, or your historical costuming hero. 

Material: White silk dupioni from the L.A. Fashion District and black silk taffeta from PureSilks.

Pattern: My draped 1770's English gown pattern as the base, and then I scaled it up a bit, added a peplum, etc.

Year: late 1770's-early 1780's

Notions: Hooks and eyes, ridgeline to stiffen the front.

How historically accurate is it? From afar it looks historically accurate, but it is only so-so; the Robe a la Anglaise pattern is accurate, but I did not pleat the back but cut it as a single piece (to save fabric). All inside seams were done by machine, all outside and visible sewing was done by hand. The cuffs are a smaller version of cuffs done on 1750's/1760's Robe a la Francaise gowns, which I'm not sure if they used this size/style in later decades. So it's a bit of a mix.

Hours to complete: I lost track, but a few hours to cut out and sew together, and then a few more to add sleeve cuffs and sleeve binding, add a peplum, add more to the peplum, add the ridgeline (front stiffening), bind the peplum, bind the jacket, and then add hooks and eyes. And later hem (by machine) a black silk taffeta sash to go with it. Probably 12+ hours overall if not twice that. This one took a long while to put together.

First worn: To a costumer friend's birthday masquerade party last weekend.

Total cost: $5.60 a yard for the white silk dupioni (used a 3 yard piece with some left), and $18 a yard for the black silk taffeta, used about two yards. A few dollars for two pieces of ridgeline and hooks and eyes.

The finished jacket - white with black trim
and black silk sash

Napoleonic Bee Muff and Sewing Kit 'Housewife' - September 'Historicism' HSM Challenge

Double entry: Late 18th or early 19th century Napoloenic Bee silk muff and sewing kit 'housewife' - posted late but finished both in September! 

For September's 'Historicism' challenge I made a late 18th or early 19th century Napoleonic Bee muff and a 'housewife' (sewing kit) in a deep burgundy red with embroidered gold bees, finished with gold silk ribbon ties, out of leftover fabric from my earlier 'Bees, Bees, Bees' Napoleonic Bee Regency court robe:

Napoleonic Bee muff in deep burgundy red with
embroidered gold bees & gold silk ribbon ties

Napoleonic Bee silk sewing kit 'housewife'

            Historical Sew Monthly 
           SEPTEMBER challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Historicism – Make a historical garment that was itself inspired by the fashions of another historical period.

The bee has been around for centuries, and was used in decoration and fashion going all the way back to ancient Egypt. During the Regency era, Napoleon chose the bee as a symbol of royalty, his reign as emperor and of his power. But Napoleon himself borrowed this symbol from earlier use, inspired by the fashions of earlier historical periods. 

Material: Muff and 'housewife': Burgundy silk brocade embroidered with gold bees, mustard yellow silk taffeta (lining of bee muff and binding on 'housewife' sewing kit), gold yellow quilted silk (sewing kit), and sewing kit scraps: coutil, quilted silk, silk taffeta binding, silk taffeta pocket, and more.

Pattern: TheLadyDetalle muff pattern and TheLadyDetalle housewife pattern

Year: late 18th century to early 19th century

Notions: antique gold silk satin ribbon ties (muff) and gold silk ribbon ties (sewing kit)

How historically accurate is it? Very. Both items are 100% hand sewn, fabrics are period appropriate, and muff is an appropriate size, shape and material for the time. Sewing kit 'housewife' is period appropriate to ones from the late 18th century.

Hours to complete: Muff: a few hours to sew finished edges, binding and finish. 'Housewife' Sewing kit: a few hours to cut everything out and make binding then sew binding onto fashion and lining, then sew the needle holder, pin holder, thread holder, and pockets inside, probably 6-8 hours total.

First worn: Neither have been used yet, muff is planned for use this winter.

Total cost: Minimal. Remnants and leftover silk scraps used to put this together, other than the 100% white goose down muff pillow inside and the silk ribbon ties. Probably about $15 in material total plus the cost of the luxury high end down.

Finished Napoleonic Bee muff

Finished Napoleonic Bee Sewing Kit 'Housewife'

Quick project - pink silk work bag

Here's a quick project I threw together in the last week: it's something I've been meaning to make for awhile, an 18th century work bag. I decided to make it out of pink silk taffeta, lined in cream silk taffeta and finished with natural white silk satin ribbon ties. I basically just cut out two squares of each fabric 13 X 13, fashion and lining, sewed the lining together (using a small seam allowance), then sewed the fashion together. Then turned the fashion inside out and left the lining outside in, inserting it INSIDE the fashion. Pinned and sewn into place, and then binding channel to finish edges and add ties.

Pink silk work bag by TheLadyDetalle

Inside of pink silk work bag

Ties drawn pink silk work bag

I'm sure this will come in handy with bringing sewing projects with me on the go!

Sewing kit or 'housewife' FUN with kits - Embroidered Bees and More

Late 18th and early 19th century Sewing Kits or 'Housewives' were made for women or men to carry both sewing supplies (to fix on the go) and also to carry jewelry or money. Here is an example extant version from Winterthur.

Inspired by lovely extant examples and the great use of something like this for someone like me who loves to bring a small sewing bag with me for getting a bit of sewing done 'on the go,' I decided to make one of these last year.

I recently finished another Sewing Kit or 'Housewife' a la 18th/19th century, burgundy silk brocade with embroidered gold bees, trimmed with mustard and gold silk. I used leftovers from my recent court robe, made bias binding for the kit and then hand sewed it all together: it was a lot of fun! I can't wait to use this to store needles, pins, scissors, thread and more!

Embroidered Bees Silk 'Housewife' by TheLadyDetalle

Finished Insides of Sewing Kit

Finished Sewing Kit or 'Housewife' Example

Sample SEWING KIT 'Housewife' by TheLadyDetalle

Here's a link to the original Sewing Kit 'Housewife' I made last year. It was a fun and quick hand sewing project, and I use it ALL the time when I bring sewing with me, so I decided to make myself another one or two (*smile*).

Then I thought, 'hey, maybe others would be interested in a pattern for one." and "hey, I have some great fabrics on hand that I can make up some lovely and unique kits with", so I created 20 kits with pattern instructions so folks can sew their own 18th/19th century Sewing Kit 'Housewife'. I have to admit, I enjoyed cutting it all out, coordinating fabrics and colors, being creative and putting the kits together and making all the binding.

KITS for making up your own Sewing Kits and Pattern Instructions are available now on Etsy, as well as Sewing Kit 'Housewife' Pattern instructions on Etsy available as a digital download.

I hope you are inspired to make your own 18th/19th century sewing kit or have already made one!
Comment here to share your plans or questions.

Happy SEWING!

A quick sewing project to post - quick garment cover

I recently took some thin, lightweight cotton from the stash and made a quick garment bag cover for my Napoleonic bees court ensemble: it was quick to throw together, just sewed both sides together, then cut and sewed a hole in the top to go over the hangar (and left the bottom open to fit over the court robe). A quick useful sewing project:

Quick cotton garment bag/cover

I'm happy that now I have something protecting the court robe a bit!

Late 18th century black silk petticoat - July (Late) Monochrome HSM Challenge

For July's Monochrome challenge, I made a late 18th century black silk ruffled petticoat, the first piece of a black and white ensemble I'm making for an event in October. Here is the finished petticoat! This is a late finish challenge, started and finished in August, as I'm behind in HSM challenges and now trying to catch up! 

Black silk petticoat w/ pleated ruffle

Historical Sew Monthly JULY challenge:

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2016/

The Challenge: Monochrome - make a garment in black, white, or any shade of grey in between. 

Material: Black silk taffeta from Pure Silks/Exclusive Silks in India - 3 yards

Pattern: I've made these so many times, I don't follow a pattern anymore: I measure how long I want the petticoat (how many inches) double it, cut in half, put selvedge to selvedge, and then sew together the sides starting 11" down (for pocket slits). Then pleat to a waistband, the add ties, then hem or add a ruffle or bias ruffle gathered at the bottom via gathers or pleats. Voila! The original basic directions of how to do a basic (unruffled) petticoat was from J.P. Ryan pattern I used years ago.

Year: late 18th century

Notions: None, the ties are self fabric.

How historically accurate is it? By look, yes, reasonably: but it's a combination of machine and hand sewing, mostly machine, so...

Hours to complete: An hour to cut out, pin and sew the side seams, another two hours to pleat then re-pleat and sew together, another hour to cut out ruffle, sew gathering stitch, then gathering threads broke, so then I pleated the ruffle by hand. Probably 6 all together.

First worn: Not yet worn: part of a black and white ensemble for an event in October.

Total cost: Black silk taffeta was from the stash, so yay. Paid $18/yard I think. 

Etsy shop update - TheLadyDetalle on Etsy (and a coupon)

Recently I did a big de-stash of fabric and antique/vintage things, and thus have been adding lots of listings to my Etsy store, TheLadyDetalle!

Hooded cape PATTERN
by TheLadyDetalle

I have way, way too much fabric in my stash (and opps! I continue to buy more when I find gorgeous fabric at great prices, thus you all can benefit from this too!), so it's time for me to share all the things, so I recently posted: silk fabric, my new hooded cape pattern, a few sari's/saree's, silk cotton blend fabric, crystal candlesticks, a Marie Antoinette embroidered silk muff, embroidered purple muff, and other fun things!

I'm really enjoying the Etsy shop, and being able to share things through the store with others. It's exciting when people purchase supplies in my shop like fabric and then share what they made with it: it's very inspiring!

Please check these new things, just recently made (embroidered muffs) or listed:


Please use this coupon: "COCO16PEB" for 20% off your next purchase through 9/30. Enjoy!

Dark and medium brown SILK sari

Marie Antoinette Embroidered Muffs:Medium Lavender Embroidered silk &Cream Embroidered silk w/ black silk ribbon

Cream Embroidered flower silk w/ black silk ribbon withMarie Antoinette portrait - Muff by TheLadyDetalle

Daguerreotype Victorian Lady

Medium blue silk dupioni

Green chandelier earring pair vintage

Also please visit my other Etsy shop, Regency Tea, for customer favorites: Sticky Toffee Pudding, Cream Earl Grey & Chocolate Vanilla Mint!