Thursday, June 21, 2018

1872 summer cotton bustle - June Historical Sew Monthly Challenge

What the item is: 1872 pleated cotton summer bustle gown
1872 white dotted swiss cotton
summer bustle by TheLadyDetalle
JuneRebellion and Counter-Culture: Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.

How it fits the challenge: 
During the later part of the 19th century, Victorian fashion migrated from the large hoop shapes of the mid 19th century 1850's and 1860's (Civil War and after), to the gradually narrowing shapes of the 1870's bustles. 1870's metal bustles used less metal support than earlier hoops, and they also used other material like horsehair, and layers and layers of ruffles underneath to create the look. Light summery  bustles like the early 1870's pleated cotton summer bustle I made (based on extants and fashion plates from 1870-1872) , were often worn at the seaside and were considered more daring and even at times "fringe" to society, rebellious in their own way with their light fluffy layers and often semi sheer or sheer cotton. 

Material: white dotted swiss cotton, semi sheer

Pattern: 1870 Trained Skirt Ensemble TV208 and 1872 Vest Basque TV405
Underneath is a Victorian corset made by Historical Designs on Etsy, my TV wire bustle and two TV ruffled silk petticoats. 

Year: 1870-1872

Notions: interfacing and boning for bodice, it needs buttons/fastenings yet

How historically accurate is it? Very. It was machine sewn (appropriate for the time), using Truly Victorian patterns, with all the appropriate foundation garments for support. I ran out of time to add buttons or fastenings, so it was pinned on. Pleated hems on trained skirt and apron front. 

Hours to complete: Many. I'm not great at keeping track, lol. I started in late May and worked on it sporadically on weekends and as I could grab some time weeknights. I stayed up really late the night before finishing the bodice and pleated hem.

First worn: this past Saturday to a friend's Victorian "At the Races" lawn party. I paired this with vintage seed pearl earrings & ribbon necklace from LadyDetalle on Etsy, and a white summer "floofy" hat I pinned together quickly two days before (previously I had wired it and covered the bottom and brims with cream silk, intending it for use for another era). 

Total cost: All STASH! The fabric was Jomar $2 a yard and I used approximately 14 yards. More yards coming as I'll add more pleats and trim in future (I ran out of time: I was starching and ironing pleats until 1:00 am the night before the event). Bodice boning and interfacing was stash.

This was a really fun summer bustle project that I've been thinking about doing for ages, and it was finally time! Have you made a summer bustle yet? What are your thoughts on the "rebellious" summer bustle trend?

New summer bustle first worn to a friend's
"At the Races" themed lawn picnic
Bustle "butt" silliness with Judy

Pinching and pleating yards and yards of pleats,
using heavy starch and my iron! 
Link to event album on Flickr (still uploading photos!).

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Introducing ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

Introducing...

ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

A collection of reproduction historic jewelry, designed for ROYAL wear.

Royal You is reproduction historic jewelry designed for fancy dress or costuming royalty or nobility of English, French or European court focusing on the 18th & 19th centuries. Great for historic events, re-enactments, trips to Versailles, Jane Austen balls or modern wear, this line will be focused on fun designs and historic detail!
 ROYAL YOU by LadyDetalle

"JOSEPHINE" Black & Gold BEES:

The first released design of ROYAL YOU, "Josephine" necklace featuring Jet Black Swarovski crystals and gold BEES in graduated fashion, with optional matching earrings. Top connected gold-plated settings and an extender chain for great fit: truly a necklace fit for royalty and Napoleonic Court! Available now on LadyDetalle on Etsy.


"JOSEPHINE" from the ROYAL YOU collection by LadyDetalle
This necklace is meant to worn at the neck but can be extended down, truly a necklace fit for the royalty or nobility of the English, French or European court of the early 19th century Regency NAPOLEONIC era. The stones are a lovely solid JET black Swarovski crystal and BEE design. Great for historic events, re-enactments, or modern wear.

Stay tuned for more ROYAL YOU designs coming soon!
Love,
TheLadyDetalle


Monday, May 28, 2018

Costume College sewing and class progress

I'm making progress on my Costume College sewing: it's a bit slow going, but I'm getting there.

Costume College sewing:
-Class prep
-Regency square hat
-Regency sleeveless spencer
-Gala jewelry - custom settings arrived and waiting time to set stones and make my necklace/earrings
-Gala gown, Regency - fabric ordered and on its way, settling design styling now
-1870's light blue silk under petticoat - done, but plan to add a detachable train
-1870's trained bustle skirt together - needs pleated hem added and hem stiffener
-1870's basque bodice

I'm so excited, I made all my own jewelry for Costume College this year! It was kind of a crazy challenge, but I learned so much, and now I'm really really enjoying my re-visit to jewelry making since I last made a lot of my own jewelry about a decade ago, and now I've learned how to set stones, make necklaces and other fun stuff.

-Thursday night pool party: black lace Downton style dress with vintage silk red/yellow fire shawl and fire opal Swarovski parure: necklace, earrings, bracelets - DONE
-Friday day: 1880's Victorian blue plaid silk day bustle and blue Swarovski parure jewelry - re-wear, plus new jewelry parure - DONE
-Friday night social: 1880's teal and gold silk evening bustle from two sari's and Swarovski parure - DONE (if there's time, I'll add some gold edging to the apron)
-Saturday day: Regency mustard apron front gown (B&T workshop, 90% complete) with sleeveless bee spencer & square hat and bee jewelry parure (jewelry done) - In Progress
-Saturday gala: Regency royals attire and parure...shhhhhh....;) - In Progress
-Sunday day: 1870's Dress of Wrong bustle of 18thc "Victorian women" (lol) fashion plate fabric - In Progress

I've also been prepping for the class I'm teaching at CoCo, "Gold in Detail...soooooo much to get done, it's coming all too soon! How's your sewing going?
Love,
-TheLadyDetalle


Monday, April 9, 2018

GOLD in DETAIL: 2018 Costume College - Limited class

Hey everyone,
I'm so excited to share, I offered and was accepted to teach one class at Costume College this year:
GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Friday: 3:00pm-5:00pm
2 Hrs Limited
Level: Intermediate
Fee: $25
Teacher: TheLady Detalle

GOLD in DETAIL - Intro to Goldwork workshop
Add some sparkly gold detail to your next project! Come join us for a workshop that will introduce you to the wonderful world of gold work -- an embroidery skill perfect for detailing special occasion gowns and accessories from any century! We will go over the basics of couching gold work (gold passing), embroidery skills, how to properly work with, start, sew and finish, some sources, inspiration and practice. Each student will create their own goldwork sampler, practicing the proper methods. Goldwork can be used in embroidery samplers, in accessories or to add stunning detail to a reproduction historical gown creation Come join in the fun!

Teacher provides: Handouts and Goldwork Kit: Gold passing, Thread, Embroidery Needle, Fabric w/ design

Student provides: Required: small embroidery scissors, thimble, wax, and an embroidery hoop size 8”. Highly recommend an embroidery SEAT frame hoop for best results (both hands free) — Elbesee is good brand,. (Please note: must be 8” hoop - other sizes will not fit the design/fabric). Highly recommend bringing small pointed end tweezers if you have them.

I'm still designing the class sampler, but we'll do embroidery goldwork in something similar to this in size: perfect to make into a reticule or to frame and hang on the wall.
Class details in Costume College
2018 Book
Goldwork embroidery - gold couching
IN PROGRESS example
Please do join in the FUN as we learn basic Goldwork hand embroidery skills!
What I love about basic 'gold couching' Goldwork is it's a quick win in embroidery: add some stunning bling more quickly than hand embroidery's lovely stitches, or you can add some gold couching with some regular embroidery: this is a great technique for accessories, stomachers, and even full gowns!

I hope to see you at Costume College 2018!
Love,
TheLady Detalle

Wednesday, February 28, 2018

The Grape Collection - available now or coming soon to LadyDetalle

I'm SO excited to share this with you all, I've been working furiously for the past few months on designing and sourcing supplies to make available a line of historically appropriate GRAPE jewelry!!

Grape jewelry was popular throughout history (I've found extant examples from as early as Roman 1st-4th century) - some gorgeous Georgian and Regency examples also, although grape jewelry seems to very popular throughout the Victorian era!

Here's a PREVIEW of the early "The GRAPE Collection" by LadyDetalle on Etsy:
Some styles available now in limited quantities and some styles coming soon!
"The GRAPE Collection" by LadyDetalle on Etsy

Be sure to follow me on Facebook or follow me on Instagram if you're interested in early news!

I'm currently designing a few other styles and working on some historic backing options (lever backs, loops, non pierced, etc.) so if you have any special requests or suggestions, I'd love to hear them, just comment below!

Sunday, February 25, 2018

Jewelry design preview - having fun with making my own jewelry for Costume College this year

Eeeeeekkkk, I've been having WAY too much fun with pretties for the shop and necklaces to wear for Costume College's ROYAL theme this year: I'll be wearing this new Madeira vintage glass stone Collet necklace I just made this week one day (although I plan to make earrings to match). I previewed these last night at the Downton Abbey dinner! (This new version of the Gold GARNET grapes coming to my shop very soon!)
New jewelry designs by LadyDetalle - This new version of my grape cluster earrings with teardrop amethyst/garnet glass
stones in a stunning crown bezel shape are coming soon!
Extant Collet Necklace Examples from Georgian thru Victorian
Have any of you ever experimented with jewelry design? Anyone else making their own jewelry for Costume College ROYALS theme this year? I have to say, I'm really enjoying the process, although there are a lot more "gotchas" than I was expecting, when I started setting stones. It's worth the final result though, I love making pretties and expressing my creativity through design and creation!

Monday, February 12, 2018

Sewing progress - light aqua blue green silk late 18th century jacket

Sewing progress!

I started a new late 18th century jacket on Sunday, but didn't get very far yet because I ended up doing a closet purge instead, lol. So far I cut out the bodice, sleeves, and sleeve flounces, and pinned down the back pleats, before hand sewing 1 of 4 back pleats down: 


I'm thinking Robe a la' Anglaise jacket with peplum, maybe even with a hood. Haven't decided yet, but I'm using my base late 18th pattern I redrafted in 2016 in a light aqua blue green silk taffeta. It needs a few more tweaks, but it's a good place to start. 

I'm still researching Robe a la' Anglaise variations: hoods in the late 18th century were generally on capes and other outerwear, and when they were on gowns or jackets, it was generally a Brunswick or Jesuit, although I've also seen a Polannaise with a hood and I think a Robe a la Anglaise too, but I need to research more and decide soon. If you have any fashion plates/prints or portraits or extents that you can share of a Robe a la' Anglaise with a hood, I'd love to see it, thanks! 


Sunday, January 7, 2018

1880's Teal Blue Silk BUSTLE from two sari's - HSM January "Mend, Reshape, Refashion" challenge

For January's "Mend, Reshape, Refashion" challenge, I RE-FASHIONED a mid-late 1880's Victorian bustle gown out of two matching teal blue silk SARI's!

TheLady Detalle mid-late 1880's Teal Blue silk BUSTLE from Two silk sari's
 These were, of course, intended to be worn as sari/saree dress, and were instead used for enough fabric to make a late Victorian bustle. It was a fun challenge to figure out how to cut out everything to best use the solid teal blue silk, how to use the pallu ends, how to use the gold edging, etc. Sari's are not very wide but are usually 5-6 yards long, so the width challenge meant I had some gold edging in my pieces, so I did a bit of re-shaping and work arounds to get it to work right.

Mid-late 1880's Teal Blue Silk BUSTLE from 2 Sari's, worn with my late Victorian corset, foundation bustle and cream silk underskirt. Accessorized with a vintage necklace and a version of my TLD Victorian garnet grape cluster earrings, but with 14k gold loops and gold leaf design instead of sterling silver (to go with all the gold on my dress) and hair by me (added in a few hair clip in/pin in bits to add volume/curls and used some of my gold edging to make a sort of hair design wrap). I'm also wearing my AD Balmorals (adore them). 

The Challenge: January Mend, Reshape, Refashion - Mend or re-shape one of your previously made historical clothing items, or refashion a new one out of something not originally intended as sewing fabric.

Material: 2 qty matching silk sari's in a deep teal blue silk with gold metallic edging

Pattern: Truly Victorian TV460 Curaiss evening bodice, TV261 Four-gore underskirt and TV305 Apron Overskirt. Did some modifying to reshape and either exclude or include gold edging, added a "pallu" train.

Year: Late Victorian, mid-late 1880's

Notions: Few yards of black twill tape from B&T for apron ties, white boning for the bodice and interface for the bodice, and some tulle for the skirt.

How historically accurate is it? Pretty historically accurate in pattern, fit, cut and fabric. Sewn by machine (which is historically accurate for this time). The least historically accurate thing about it is the hidden safety pins I used for closures since I despise sewing on fastenings ;).

Hours to complete: A lot. I wasn't great about keeping track, but it was roughly a few hours to cut everything out, then a good half day sewing multiple times on each: skirt, apron and bodice. Add some extra time on adding ties, tulle, interface, boning, planning out how to use the pallu and edging, and trim on the bodice, and the best shape for the skirt train (not part of the pattern, added by me), and it ended up being quite a LOT of sewing!! I started this in 2017 and finished in 2018!

First worn: Last night to a re-scheduled Victorian Christmas Tea Twelfth Night hosted by ModernMantuaMaker

Total cost: All the notions were from stash, and the matching two silk sari's were from stash also. I was stash-busting on this outfit! I added the 2 matching silk sari's to my stash early last year when a friend de-stashed them at a costumer flea market: I'm lucky to have acquired them and happy to have used them from my stash so quickly (well, quickly for me, lol).

Full length view of front - the gold edging
comes from both sides of the sari (top and
bottom) and the train comes from a pallu
(highly designed) end
Accessorized with TLD Victorian GARNET
grape cluster earrings in gold available
now in my Etsy shop


Gold edging from the sari used to create an
interesting and eye catching design down the 
bodice front and around the edge of bodice

I have more trim planned in future, I ran out of time for this event, so it'll get refreshed for next wearing! ;)


Thursday, January 4, 2018

2018 Sewing Plans and Goals

2018 Sewing Plans and Goals:

My sewing plans for 2018 include new outfits for events, some fun new outerwear, and trying to sew with stash fabric that I have at hand and ready to go, and also re-joining the HSM monthly for 2018 challenges. I also would love to work on more foundation garments in 2018, natural form support and 1830's corset/stays to prep for 2019 sewing/plans. I also plan to continue embroidery projects in 2018, to continue to develop skills and add fun embroidery to accessories and projects.

PLANNED for 2018:
-Finish teal blue silk 1880's bustle (bustle from two sari's) - JAN
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse - JAN
-2018 CoCo DoW outfit - FEB
-Regency bee spencer and bonnet - FEB/MAR
-2018 CoCo Gala outfit - APR-JUL
-New Regency apron/bib front gown - MAY
-White cotton summer Victorian bustle - MAY-JUN
-New chemise dress - JUL-AUG
-New Regency for Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT
-Regency sari dress for evening Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT
-New Titanic/Downton Abbey gown and outfits OCT-NOV
-Fun sewing and UFO's - DEC
-Etsy shop creative sewing: muffs, muff pillows, reticules & more, plus creating jewelry - 2018

I added month/dates to my sewing plans to try to keep myself on track, but we'll see if that works, usually it's life stuff that changes my sewing plans.

If there's time in 2018:
-Natural form bustle foundation
-1830's corset & foundation
-late Victorian outerwear
-start my quilted petticoat project
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag

UFO's for 2018:
-Finish trim and fixes on pink striped silk late 18th century jacket
-Black & white plaid silk Edwardian skirt
-Robe a la Francaise brown & pink striped silk satin
-Early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-Late 18th century men's jacket for HB

My plans for 2018 include these new sewing goals (with some re-vamped goals):

Goal #1: sew for FUN and for FUN events

Plan and enjoy my sewing, creativity, integrate painting, beading, embroidery, trim and other embellishments to enjoy sewing, and sew with creative inspiration and fabric inspiration.

Plan and create and sew my outfits for FUN planned events, with plenty of time for creativity and enjoyment in the process.

Goal #2: sew more with Sari/Saree's

I'm super inspired by some lovely vintage silk sari/saree's from India, and have quite a few on hand for projects, and I'd like to sew with more of those in 2018.

Goal #3: UFO's and de-stash

One of my goals in 2018 is to get some of my UFO's either done, make plans to get them done, or move them along to someone who will. My goal is to cut down on my UFO pile. Another goal is to use stash fabric and also de-stash fabric - I'm going to try to hold off on fabric buying (except CoCo) and also lining fabric for 2018 projects if I don't have on hand. Currently my fabric stash is large and I find I sew best when the fabric "speaks to me" and inspires me, so I need to continue to use or part with fabric I like but that isn't inspiring me or that I have other fabric I like more for a similar purpose. I also want to try to stop saving fabric for a particular purpose and instead let the creative juices flow and consider my stash with an open mind.

Other goals:

Take part in some or all of the 2018 HSM challenges. Outsource things I don't like making or want to do, or have time for, or that I want to support another artist/creator's work. This includes foundation garments, men's garments, accessories, etc. Make some changes in how I spend my creative time and continue to re-shape my Etsy shop. Wish me luck!

Any great sewing goals or plans you have for 2018? What do you find works best for you in planning your sewing out for the new year?

2017 Year in Review

2017 Sewing - I hit a few of my big sewing goals, creating foundations for new eras with my first (and second) Victorian corset, foundation bustle and my first 1880's bustle dress. I also did an 1898 evening court ensemble, and almost finished a second 1880's Victorian bustle by the end of 2017. 

I made some outfits for events, a couple of commissions, and also started quite a few things that are currently in UFO progress and also finished up a few UFO's. Lots of time spent on my Etsy shop, including new jewelry design and creation, and also on my class prep for the three Costume College classes I taught in July. I also enjoyed some lovely costume events in re-wears and re-accessorized looks and continued to improve the organization of my sewing room, including de-stash of fabric and supplies (and some stashing too, but hey, none of us is perfect! ;) lol). 

My SEWING for 2017 included: 
First bustle - 1880's blue green plaid silk bustle
for Carolyn's Big Bustle Birthday Bash
Back of my 'buh-buh-buh-buh BUSTLE!'

Round 2 of 1880's bustle underskirt, added
another layer of ruffles after the first wear
View of late Victorian corset (2nd try) and my
white linen and wire 1880's foundation bustle

Unfinished first late Victorian corset (first try)
- this will get binding and then I'll sell
it on since it ended up too small for me ;)
1880's teal blue silk Victorian bustle skirt and apron/overskirt
Victorian bustle from two SARI's
(bodice in progress)
1898 fancy evening dress for Russian Court Dinner
Loved that evening!
Dark pink plaid cotton 1898 underskirt
Bonus view of my royal court orders - bling bling!


Round 1 of my pink striped late 18th century jacket
I wore to Francaise Dinner this year, which needs
quite a few fixes and more trim before I wear it again.
Back of the jacket - fun with stripes and an
'en forreau' back style (though the skirt of the
jacket is intentionally short)

A pile of 100% white goose down pillows for
my Portrait MUFF class at CoCo this past year
plus a bonus aqua blue muff pillow for moi ;)
A stack of housewife/huswif kits ready
to put together
My housewife/sewing kit class prep for CoCo

Early 19th century circular reticule - CoCo class 
Early 19th century reticule commission
Hot pink silk portrait muff commission for a friend


Mint green bee work bag
Black bee work bag


In progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire

My other in progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire
In progress goldwork embroidery for a reticule I'm making in 2018
Lots and lots of Etsy FUN in 2017,
including designing & making various earrings & things

My RE-WEARS for 2017 included:
With the hb at CW's Immersive Garden Party
CW's Immersive Palace Garden Party in May
Re-wore my 'barely pink' Chemise a la Reina
with a ship in my hair and feathers

Friday day at Costume College
Re-wore my strawberry picking Regency
cotton gown with new accessories: white
embroidered cotton apron and my black
and mustard silk Regency fichu
Friday night at Costume College
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat
and black silk sash with new accessories:
new TLD tiara, ITLRD jewelry
Saturday day at Costume College
Re-wore my late 1790's crossover gown
with new accessories: mustard bee and
"B" black silk reticule, silk marabou
pelerine and black shawl turban


Saturday GALA at Costume College
Re-wore my orange silk Regency gown
from a SARI with new accessories:
vintage mustard shawl, Regency diadem
from Bohemian Belle and DALM earrings







CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black silk marabou hooded cape
Lots of fun with historic houses


CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat
11th annual Regency Pumpkin Tea
Re-wore my mustard and black cotton
triangle trim crossover Regency with
new accessories: stovepipe bonnet,
Napoleonic bee muff & mustard bee and
"B" reticule
Regency Candlelit soiree
Re-wore my white embroidered cotton
crossover Regency with new accessories:
vintage silk shawl, new tiara and pearl TLD
earrings





COMPLETED in 2017:
Court gown:
-1898 evening court ensemble (skirt, underskirt, bodice)
-Set of silk royal court sashes
-Tack gold embroideries on hb's military jacket

Victorian foundations:
-1880's silk bustle petticoat/skirt - cream silk with ruffles
-1880's foundation bustle in white linen
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen

Late Victorian bustle:
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle dress/bodice
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle skirt
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle skirt

Late 18th century:
-1780's striped pink silk jacket for Francaise Dinner - round one complete

Costume College prep work for teaching 3 classes:
-Portrait muff class - kits prep, down muff insides
-Housewife sewing kit class - kits prep
-Regency detailing/reverse applique class - kits prep
-In progress: reverse applique sample and housewife sample

Accessories:
-Mint green bee small work bag
-Black bee work bag
-blue plaid silk sash
-Coral silk taffeta reticule - commission
-Aqua silk taffeta circular reticule with Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (CoCo UFO)

UFO's completed:
-Cream and gold printed silk late 18th century petticoat
-Fixes on my Orange Silk sari Regency gown

UFO's In Progress in 2017:
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen (first try) - just needs boning/binding
-Victorian chemise - close
-Victorian drawers - cut out and partially sewn
-Edwardian/turn of the century black & white silk plaid walking skirt - cut out and partially sewn
-early 19th century Regency gentleman's coat - partially cut out
-Pink striped silk late 18th century petticoat - just needs hem/ruffle
-various muffs and work bags, sashes, housewives and other accessories
-RSN class samplers
-Mustard and black silk circular reticule
-Fleur-de-lis goldwork sampler on silk

All in all, a good bit of sewing done in 2017!

Here's my 2017 Sewing Plans and Goals!

PLANNED for 2017:
-Robe a la Francaise
-Late 18th and early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-late Victorian corset - done
-late Victorian foundation garments - done
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse
-Outerwear - late Victorian
-Court outfit - done
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag
-Stays/Corsets: 1830's, Edwardian, Georgian, Regency
-Regency bee spencer and bonnet
-Regency sari dress
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-More Etsy shop stuff - muffs, reticules, and more

I failed to take part in the Dreamstress's HSM 2017 challenges (I derailed myself with a failed January challenge that ended up in the "bad corner" for 4-5 months before I tried again), but I'm going to try to knock out at least some of the 2018 HSM Challenges.

I'll do 2018 Plans in another post!