|"The Cut of Women's Clothes" by Nora Waugh|
I decided to draft a pattern for this dress by looking at the general shapes in 'A Cut of Women's Clothes.' Since it is an open robe gown (basically a crossover gown) I grabbed my bodice pieces from my modified S&S crossover gown pattern, and then drafted and changed the shape entirely based on how the late 1790's waistline is lower than full Regency/empire style, so I made a long middle bodice back piece, a lengthened side back bodice piece that goes under the arm, and two front pieces (each had it's own unique shape) and then tried to draft a new sleeve, but ended up hating the fit of the muslin sleeve, so I modified my S&S long sleeve pattern for my first try at the bodice.
I did a quick muslin mock up of the bodice and sleeve which fit pretty nicely so I started cutting!
|Cutting an Open Robe Gown|
|Draping an Open Robe Gown|
Making up dresses without patterns and without taking time to make full fitted mock-ups is difficult. So I decided instead to stick with my earlier drafted bodice back and side back pieces, which I liked, and instead just use my leftover fabric pieces to cut out the sleeves AGAIN, and before I did, I re-shaped the sleeves to add more fabric, re-shape the top, in order to get it to fit the arm hole correctly. Hooray, that worked!! So in went the new sleeves and the outside part of the bodice basically done!
Here is the original in-progress bodice:
|Bodice of Open Robe Gown|
|Sewing in the bodice of Open Robe Gown|
|A finished channel showing the copper sequin spangles|
I still need to make a braided belt from strips of the fabric, which I've already cut out and started braiding, here are the braiding strips here:
|Creating strips for braided belt|
The braided belt I planned was inspired by this fashion plate: I wanted something that goes around the waistline and hangs down like this late 1790's fashion plate:
|1790's fashion plate from Pinterest|
|Almost finished late 1790's Open Robe Gown by TheLadyDetalle|