Sunday, August 28, 2016

Late 18th century black silk petticoat - July (Late) Monochrome HSM Challenge

For July's Monochrome challenge, I made a late 18th century black silk ruffled petticoat, the first piece of a black and white ensemble I'm making for an event in October. Here is the finished petticoat! This is a late finish challenge, started and finished in August, as I'm behind in HSM challenges and now trying to catch up! 
Black silk petticoat w/ pleated ruffle
Historical Sew Monthly JULY challenge:

The Challenge: Monochrome - make a garment in black, white, or any shade of grey in between. 

Material: Black silk taffeta from Pure Silks/Exclusive Silks in India - 3 yards

Pattern: I've made these so many times, I don't follow a pattern anymore: I measure how long I want the petticoat (how many inches) double it, cut in half, put selvedge to selvedge, and then sew together the sides starting 11" down (for pocket slits). Then pleat to a waistband, the add ties, then hem or add a ruffle or bias ruffle gathered at the bottom via gathers or pleats. Voila! The original basic directions of how to do a basic (unruffled) petticoat was from J.P. Ryan pattern I used years ago.

Year: late 18th century

Notions: None, the ties are self fabric.

How historically accurate is it? By look, yes, reasonably: but it's a combination of machine and hand sewing, mostly machine, so...

Hours to complete: An hour to cut out, pin and sew the side seams, another two hours to pleat then re-pleat and sew together, another hour to cut out ruffle, sew gathering stitch, then gathering threads broke, so then I pleated the ruffle by hand. Probably 6 all together.

First worn: Not yet worn: part of a black and white ensemble for an event in October.

Total cost: Black silk taffeta was from the stash, so yay. Paid $18/yard I think. 

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