Monday, November 30, 2015

Burgundy quilted silk Empire muff - April HSM (LATE) Challenge 'War & Peace'

First, this is a LATE finish of April's HSM Challenge (finished at the end of November) - life got in the way, and I missed three months of sewing and HSM Challenges (April, May & June) so I am planning on catching these up (albeit late) - I did the June challenge already, and now it's time for the April challenge in December!

Quilted silk Empire muff:
Empire quilted silk muff by TheLadyDetalle
For my late April War & Peace challenge, I created a burgundy quilted silk muff from the Empire period: during the early parts of the 19th century French fashion was greatly influenced by the blockades and embargoes during the Empire period (1800-1820).

Thus, it was very patriotic (and practical) to use local material, in this case, French silk (from Lyon, etc.). My War & Peace challenge takes into consideration the difficult acquiring materials during the First French Empire or the Napoleonic period, with the crowning in 1804 and the height of the period round about 1812.

The luxury silk markets in Tours and Lyon, France, were in existence for centuries before the Empire period, from about the 15th century. Unfortunately the upheaval of the French Revolution in the late 18th century, severely damaged the then-thriving silk industries in France (including weaving, spinning, dying) and the luxurious and complex designs and expensive product, were largely overtaken and discarded by the results of this conflict and the corresponding desire for more simple garments and dress styles. Many textile artisans were put out of work during this time and the industry has never recovered. However, when Napoleon ruled for a time in the early 19th century, his desire for the luxurious and his investment in the re-decorations of his imperial residences, led to a minor revival in the French silk textile production. The effects of war were largely seen in French silk production and are the object of my late April War & Peace challenge: French silk use was revival-ed and patriotic for French people during the Empire period.

In progress pics:
Front View
Back View

Historical Sew Monthly (Late) APRIL challenge:

The Challenge: War & Peace: the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace. - LATE

Fabric: Both from stash. Burgundy quilted silk dupioni (very low slub) from Jomar (just a piece, the rest went to a non-costuming project). Bias binding is a matching burgundy silk dupioni (very low slub) from silk sale earlier this year by GoldenSilks.

Pattern: TheLadyDetalle muff pattern (my pattern)

Year: Empire (1804-1812 about)

Notions: Silk ribbon ties

How historically accurate is it? It's pretty close: silk dupioni is not the weave they had at the time (they had a tighter, more luxurious weave closer to our modern silk taffeta) as well as other silk weaves. This high quality, low slub silk dupioni easily passes the look test: it looks period accurate. It was sewn by hand, which is period accurate. The shape and size were historically appropriate for 1804-1812).

Hours to complete: 1+ hour to cut bias binding and pin, 2 hours to sew it on, 2 hours to sew on the binding channels, sew it together and add the ties!

First worn: Not yet: I'm planning this for  Regency 12th Night Ball in January!

Total cost: All the fabrics and ribbon were from the stash, so nothing.

Though the quilted silk from Jomar was $5.99/yd and I used a small piece and the burgundy silk dupioni for bias binding was $8.99/yd and I used 3 strips 2 1/2" wide and about 54" long (the selvedge but cut on bias so not quite). The ties were $7.50 for 3 yards and I used less than a yard. I'm guessing $3-4 total cost.
Quilted silk muff - Empire
I'm happy to get this HSM challenge done, although very late, *sigh*...on to the next one!

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