Sunday, November 22, 2015

Black silk black marabou hooded cape - Part Two

Finally, here is the finished black silk and black marabou hooded cape: I'm happy with how it turned out:
Black marabou silk hooded cape by TheLadyDetalle
Materials: I used an excellent quality black silk taffeta (bought a few years back in the L.A. Fashion District), with self bias binding trim, lined in black linen (bought from 96th District Fabrics at Fort Fred this past spring for this purpose), and trimmed in black marabou feather boas (bought from JoAnn's).

I followed the same tutorial I used here and here, in creating my pink silk hooded cape, only I changed how far down the front the hood is attached (lowering it a few inches in the front), and also attached the hood to the cape base before adding the bias binding to finish. I trimmed it in black marabou from JoAnn's, following this method, and viola!

This style is popular and modeled after the late 18th century, based on one in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' by Norah Waugh, but I've been researching capes, mantles, mantlets, capelets, cloaks and related outerwear for a few months now. I have found that the terms are sometimes interchangeable (but not always) and that the shapes and terms changed over the decades, the general shape, wear and use often was similar across decades, so this late 18th century hooded cape is very similar in some cases to Victorian capes. I've also found that things are likely mis-labeled at times and that I'm sure, adds to the confusion.

Here is what I've learned in my research so far (these are generalities and open to future update with more research): Cloaks are long, almost the length of a garment. Capes are generally waist length and lack sleeves (their purpose is to keep the wearer's back warm, and as the garment is so short, sleeves are not needed). Pelerines are waist length like capes, but are longer in the front (almost to the floor in some cases I've seen) and have pointed (or rounded) edges, and were popular across many decades. Pelisses are full length and have sleeves in the Regency, but in the Georgian period, they appear to be mid way between waist length and full length and have sleeves. Mantle is a term that seems to be synonymous with capes; I have founded waist length garments without sleeves described both as capes and as mantles, and I have found waist length garments with sleeves described only as mantles or pelisses. But a few described as a cape. Fichus are generally very small and cover only the top portion of the chest/neck. Capelets and Mantlets appear to be smaller or mini versions of Capes and Mantles respectively.

Whew, it's enough to make one's head spin! Here is a link to my Pinterest board with some of my research, if you want to check it out! So definitely something that requires further research, but this is why I'm calling it a hooded cape for now!

Here is the page from 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' defining this as a "hooded cape."
Page from 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' by Norah Waugh
A few in-progress pictures:
Pleating both sides of the neckline
The big hood (meant to fit over high hairstyles)
Pleating the neckline
And my prior entry: 'Black Silk Marabou Cape - Part One'.

Thanks for reading!

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