2018 Year in Review - TheLady Detalle

2018 Sewing YEAR in REVIEW:
I had some really productive sewing in 2018, including the CoCo sewing below!

Costume College Outfits from 2018 (Photos by InTheLongRun)

In 2018 I made three bustles, one 1880's bustle and two early 1870's bustles, a Regency day gown, a sleeveless spenser, two Regency evening gowns, an Edwardian skirt, a late 18th century jacket, foundations of a Victorian bustle under petticoat and a bustle lower skirt support, plus accessories and a TON of historic jewelry - a very productive 2018! That said, the majority of the sewing happened January to July, and very little sewing happened August to December, life, eh. Pictures and more details below!

My SEWING for 2018 included: 

ENSEMBLES:
1880's Teal bustle from two silk sari's

Teal 1880's bustle from two silk sari's
(Photo by InTheLongRun)

1872 Pleated white dotted swiss cotton summer bustle

White dotted swiss cotton early 1870's
trained bustle (Photo by InTheLongRun)

Early 1870's 18th century "Victorian women" cotton & silk "Dress of Wrong" trained bustle

Early 1870's trained cotton & silk bustle
"Dress of Wrong" (photo by InTheLongRun)

Early Regency hand-sewn mustard design stripe cotton apron-front with silk bee triangle sleeveless spenser

Early Regency mustard design stripe cotton
with Silk BEE triangle sleeveless spenser
(photo by InTheLongRun)

Regency 1807 court gown of vintage embroidered net over mustard silk taffeta (re-wear of silk BEE court over-robe)

1807 Regency Court Gown Ensemble - BEES
(Photo by InTheLongRun)

Regency aqua silk sari evening gown

Regency aqua silk sari evening gown
(photo by A Frivolous Distinction)

PARTIALS:
late 18th century jacket - light aqua

Light aqua late 18th century jacket
(photo by InTheLongRun)

Black & white plaid silk Edwardian trained skirt (UFO)

Black & white plaid silk Edwardian trained skirt

FOUNDATIONS:
1870's under petticoat in ice blue silk

Early 1870's ice blue silk under petticoat 

"Butt fluffer" pleated ruffle lower skirt support for early 1870's

Cream silk bustle lower skirt support

ACCESSORIES:
Mustard silk sash and royal orders

One of my "royal orders" - the order
of the Grape Bee Fleur-de-Lis

Aqua silk taffeta sash 
Pink silk taffeta reticule

OTHER:
Goldwork sampler on silk taffeta

Goldwork sampler by LadyDetalle

Class prep for "Gold in Detail" class at CoCo 2018

"Gold in Detail" goldwork class
prep for CoCo 2018

LadyDetalle jewelry:
-"JOSEPHINE" BEE Mourning necklace & earrings

"Josephine" BEE by LadyDetalle

-"EMPRESS" Garnet Grapes and Gold necklace & earrings

"Empress" Garnet Grapes & Gold

by LadyDetalle

-All my Costume College jewelry
-Tons of new jewelry design & creation for the shop!

Below were my original plans for 2018 sewing. I did pretty well on my main list and knocked out a UFO or two, added a few extras, and designed and created a lot of historical jewelry for LadyDetalle.

PLANNED for 2018:
-Finish teal blue silk 1880's bustle (bustle from two sari's) - JAN, COMPLETE
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse - JAN (nope) - started drafting, on HOLD
-2018 CoCo DoW outfit - FEB (started in JAN), COMPLETE
-Regency bee spencer and square bonnet - FEB/MAR - spencer COMPLETE
-2018 CoCo Gala outfit - APR-JUL - COMPLETE
-New regency apron/bib front gown - MAY, B&T workshop gown/handsewn, COMPLETE
-White cotton summer Victorian bustle - MAY-JUN - MAY/JUNE, COMPLETE
-New aqua chemise dress - JUL-AUG - TBD - life got in the way, on HOLD
-Regency for Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT -  Partially complete then stopped
-Regency sari dress for evening Pumpkin Tea SEP-OCT - COMPLETE
-New Titanic/Downton Abbey gown and outfits OCT-NOV - UFO Skirt COMPLETE
-Fun sewing and UFO's - DEC - nope
-Etsy shop creative sewing: muffs, muff pillows, reticules & more, plus creating jewelry - 2018 - jewelry yes, and started some new accessories but not much else

If there's time in 2018: (hah!) - Nope!
-Natural form bustle foundation
-1830's corset & foundation
-late Victorian outerwear
-start my quilted petticoat project
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag

UFO's for 2018 and beyond:
-Fixes on my black and white 1770's jacket - COMPLETE
-Late 18th century gentleman's silk jacket - brown and burgundy - cutting in progress
-Napoleonic Bee/Fleur-de-Lis Regency shoes - started, on hold
-first 1880's Victorian corset - 75% complete, on hold
-Victorian chemise and drawers - partially sewn
-Cream silk with red embroidered flowers jewelry pouch - in progress
-Finish trim and fixes on pink striped silk late 18th century jacket
-Finish striped pink silk petticoat
-Robe a la Francaise brown & pink striped silk satin
-Early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-Late 18th century men's jacket for HB
-Late 18th century hat - covered and ready for trim! COMPLETE
-Fun reticule - second muslin in progress
-Pompadours - fabric dye, rusty red and paint heels rust color  - not started
-Yellow & black Napoleonic bee muff and sash
-Early 19th century (Regency) pink cotton velvet spencer - collar, fastens and finishing only
-Regency Pumpkin Tea shoes - Phase II (petersham ribbon trim) finishing

2018 Sewing Plans and Goals

And that's it, 2018 sewing, thanks for reading :).

Next up, 2019 Sewing Plans!

2017 Year in Review

2017 Sewing - I hit a few of my big sewing goals, creating foundations for new eras with my first (and second) Victorian corset, foundation bustle and my first 1880's bustle dress. I also did an 1898 evening court ensemble, and almost finished a second 1880's Victorian bustle by the end of 2017. 

I made some outfits for events, a couple of commissions, and also started quite a few things that are currently in UFO progress and also finished up a few UFO's. Lots of time spent on my Etsy shop, including new jewelry design and creation, and also on my class prep for the three Costume College classes I taught in July. I also enjoyed some lovely costume events in re-wears and re-accessorized looks and continued to improve the organization of my sewing room, including de-stash of fabric and supplies (and some stashing too, but hey, none of us is perfect! ;) lol). 

My SEWING for 2017 included: 

First bustle - 1880's blue green plaid silk bustle
for Carolyn's Big Bustle Birthday Bash

Back of my 'buh-buh-buh-buh BUSTLE!'

Round 2 of 1880's bustle underskirt, added
another layer of ruffles after the first wear

View of late Victorian corset (2nd try) and my
white linen and wire 1880's foundation bustle

Unfinished first late Victorian corset (first try)
- this will get binding and then I'll sell
it on since it ended up too small for me ;)

1880's teal blue silk Victorian bustle skirt and apron/overskirt
Victorian bustle from two SARI's
(bodice in progress)

1898 fancy evening dress for Russian Court Dinner
Loved that evening!

Dark pink plaid cotton 1898 underskirt
Bonus view of my royal court orders - bling bling!

Round 1 of my pink striped late 18th century jacket

I wore to Francaise Dinner this year, which needs

quite a few fixes and more trim before I wear it again.

Back of the jacket - fun with stripes and an
'en forreau' back style (though the skirt of the
jacket is intentionally short)

A pile of 100% white goose down pillows for
my Portrait MUFF class at CoCo this past year
plus a bonus aqua blue muff pillow for moi ;)

A stack of housewife/huswif kits ready
to put together

My housewife/sewing kit class prep for CoCo

Early 19th century circular reticule - CoCo class 

Early 19th century reticule commission

Hot pink silk portrait muff commission for a friend

Mint green bee work bag

Black bee work bag

In progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire

My other in progress embroidery from RSN class with Auburn Claire

In progress goldwork embroidery for a reticule I'm making in 2018

Lots and lots of Etsy FUN in 2017,
including designing & making various earrings & things

My RE-WEARS for 2017 included:

With the hb at CW's Immersive Garden Party

CW's Immersive Palace Garden Party in May
Re-wore my 'barely pink' Chemise a la Reina
with a ship in my hair and feathers

Friday day at Costume College
Re-wore my strawberry picking Regency
cotton gown with new accessories: white
embroidered cotton apron and my black
and mustard silk Regency fichu

Friday night at Costume College
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat
and black silk sash with new accessories:
new TLD tiara, ITLRD jewelry

Saturday day at Costume College
Re-wore my late 1790's crossover gown
with new accessories: mustard bee and
"B" black silk reticule, silk marabou
pelerine and black shawl turban

Saturday GALA at Costume College
Re-wore my orange silk Regency gown
from a SARI with new accessories:
vintage mustard shawl, Regency diadem
from Bohemian Belle and DALM earrings

CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black silk marabou hooded cape
Lots of fun with historic houses

CW RSN Trip in October
Re-wore my black & white silk late 18th
century jacket, black silk ruffled petticoat

11th annual Regency Pumpkin Tea
Re-wore my mustard and black cotton
triangle trim crossover Regency with
new accessories: stovepipe bonnet,
Napoleonic bee muff & mustard bee and
"B" reticule

Regency Candlelit soiree
Re-wore my white embroidered cotton
crossover Regency with new accessories:
vintage silk shawl, new tiara and pearl TLD
earrings

COMPLETED in 2017:

Court gown:
-1898 evening court ensemble (skirt, underskirt, bodice)
-Set of silk royal court sashes
-Tack gold embroideries on hb's military jacket

Victorian foundations:
-1880's silk bustle petticoat/skirt - cream silk with ruffles
-1880's foundation bustle in white linen
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen

Late Victorian bustle:
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle dress/bodice
-1880's blue plaid silk bustle skirt
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle over-skirt/apron
-Mid/late 1880's teal blue silk bustle skirt

Late 18th century:
-1780's striped pink silk jacket for Francaise Dinner - round one complete

Costume College prep work for teaching 3 classes:
-Portrait muff class - kits prep, down muff insides
-Housewife sewing kit class - kits prep
-Regency detailing/reverse applique class - kits prep
-In progress: reverse applique sample and housewife sample

Accessories:
-Mint green bee small work bag
-Black bee work bag
-blue plaid silk sash
-Coral silk taffeta reticule - commission
-Aqua silk taffeta circular reticule with Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (CoCo UFO)

UFO's completed:
-Cream and gold printed silk late 18th century petticoat
-Fixes on my Orange Silk sari Regency gown

UFO's In Progress in 2017:
-1880's Victorian corset in blue embroidered linen (first try) - just needs boning/binding
-Victorian chemise - close
-Victorian drawers - cut out and partially sewn
-Edwardian/turn of the century black & white silk plaid walking skirt - cut out and partially sewn
-early 19th century Regency gentleman's coat - partially cut out
-Pink striped silk late 18th century petticoat - just needs hem/ruffle
-various muffs and work bags, sashes, housewives and other accessories
-RSN class samplers
-Mustard and black silk circular reticule
-Fleur-de-lis goldwork sampler on silk

All in all, a good bit of sewing done in 2017!

Here's my 2017 Sewing Plans and Goals!

PLANNED for 2017:
-Robe a la Francaise
-Late 18th and early 19th century men's jacket for HB
-late Victorian corset - done
-late Victorian foundation garments - done
-Tiffany blue fur trimmed late 18th century pelisse
-Outerwear - late Victorian
-Court outfit - done
-Pumpkin Tea shoes - bees or fleur-de-lis
-Regency Pumpkin Tea flag - inspired by Kat's Victorian Party flag
-Stays/Corsets: 1830's, Edwardian, Georgian, Regency
-Regency bee spencer and bonnet
-Regency sari dress
-18th century jacket/dress with a hood
-More Etsy shop stuff - muffs, reticules, and more

I failed to take part in the Dreamstress's HSM 2017 challenges (I derailed myself with a failed January challenge that ended up in the "bad corner" for 4-5 months before I tried again), but I'm going to try to knock out at least some of the 2018 HSM Challenges.

I'll do 2018 Plans in another post!

2016 Year in Review

2016 was a decent sewing year :).

My 2016 SEWING:
For the amount of time I sewed it was productive: I was able to get a few new outfits done, including my Gala gown for Coco, class prep for CoCo and quite a bit of sewing done for my Etsy shop.

This one was so fun to make and wear: an early 19th century Napoelonic era Regency bee open court robe and gown:

 'Bees, Bees, Bees' Napoleonic era open robe and court gown

I did pretty decent in following my 2016 goals of #1) sew for CREATIVITY and #3) work on my LONG-term sewing plans, but not as much on #2) sew more MEN's garments.  Other smaller goals were lots of HAND-sewing (yes!), sewing for events in advance (yup) and sew from the STASH (I sewed from the stash a lot but I also both purged and added to the stash, so...sort of?). And also complete some UFO's when I can, which I did a few of and added a lot more to the UFO pile, lol.

The LONG-term sewing plans means getting going with new eras and working on foundation garments, which I did at the end of the year: Victorian corsets in the works. Also I have a Robe a la Francaise half complete and I made my first ever Regency sari dress, woohoo! So a good amount of work on long-term sewing plans this year. I didn't accomplish as many of the specific plans as I wanted, but did manage to get a lot of creative sewing in during 2016, which I really enjoyed!

Orange silk sari Regency gow

White and black late 18th century silk
jacket, sash and petticoat

Gibson Girl blouse white cotton

Seafoam green wool hooded cape

Cream quilted silk under petticoat

Mustard and black silk Regency fichu
and fixes with black triangle trim 

Mustard and black silk Regency fichu

Black triangle trim and bodice fixes

Embroidered cream and black Marie Antoinette muff 

White embroidered Jane Austen muff

Tiffany blue bee fleur-de-lis Marie
Antoinette muff

Bee brocade muff

Tiffany blue and silver Duchess muff

Burgundy and gold Lady Worsley bee muff

Platinum and black Duchess of Devonshire muff

Purple embroidered Marie Antoinette muff

Black bee brocade Marie Antoinette muff

Add portraits and trim to Etsy shop muffs, plus blue Jane Austen
muff and cream and burgundy Regency lady muff

Re-do Regency lady embroidered wheat muff and more

Bee housewife sewing kit

Pink silk work bag

Tiffany blue silk work bag

Seagreen and pink housewife sewing kit

TheLadyDetalle Late 18thC
Hooded Cape Pattern

TheLadyDetalle Late 18thC
Housewife Sewing Kit Pattern

Housewife Sewing Kits for Etsy

Silk and cotton muff insides - 100% white goose down is up next!

Quick cotton cover for bee robe

White fichu

UFO #1 silk sash hem

UFO #2 top hem of Edwardian overskirt

UFO #4 Orange silk muff cover

UFO #3 Set of blue designer pillows

Black Edwardian hat for Christmas Tea

Black Edwardian hat

COMPLETED (Planned) in 2016:
-Napoleonic bee gown  & shoes: Regency 'Bees, Bees, Bees' Napoleonic Open Robe & Court Gown -
 April (late) Gender Bender HSM Challenge

-Regency sari dress: Orange Silk sari Regency gown - 10th Annual Regency Pumpkin Tea Candlelight Dinner

A muff I've had in my mind for a looooooong time: time to make it!
-Tiffany blue and silver Duchess of Devonshire portrait muff
-Burgundy red Bee Lady Worsley silk muff - November 'Red' HSM
-18th century lady portrait pink silk muff for Etsy shop
-Marie Antoinette portrait pink silk marabou muff for Etsy shop
-Jane Austen portrait white embroidered cotton muff for Etsy shop
-18th Century Muffs for the etsy shop - Marie Antoinette cream, embroidered purple, blue wheat

More outerwear - what can I say, it's really fun to make & wear!
-Seafoam wool hooded cape - June (late) Travel HSM Challenge
-CoCo Class prep - in progress brick red cape and hood ready for class
-Yellow silk w/ black silk trim Regency fichu - HSM Protection March Challenge

Revamp my early 19th century yellow Regency cross over gown bodice & add more black trim:
-Early 19th century mustard yellow cotton Regency Cross Over gown - More fixes & black triangles
-Early 19th century yellow w/ black trim cotton cross over gown - bodice fixes and more trim

COMPLETED (Un-Planned) in 2016:
-Black & white 1770's ensemble, jacket and sash
-Black silk ruffled petticoat
-Late 18th century cream quilted silk petticoat - CoCo sewing, Tucks & Pleating Late February Challenge
-Summer Edwardian white lace Gibson Girl blouse - May (late) Holes HSM Challenge

-Muff: Burgundy with gold embroidered bees
-Lots and lots of muff insides for the Etsy shop
-18th century embroidered silk seagreen & pink 'housewife' (sewing kit)
-Housewife/Sewing Kits for Etsy shop
-Napoleonic bee silk sewing kit
-18th century embroidered silk cream & pink 'housewife' (sewing kit) - CoCo travel project
-Tiffany blue silk work bag
-Pink silk work bag
-Storage cotton  cover for my Napoleonic court robe (quickly whipped together)

-Fixes on my 'strawberry picking' Regency gown
-Men's late 18th century blue waistcoat - buttons & buttonholes (majority buttonholes mom)
-UFO's: #1) hems on golden silk sash #2) top hem on white Edwardian over-skirt #3) Set of blue drapery pillows #4) orange silk muff cover - January HSM 'Procrastination' challenge
-Plus lots of in-progress muffs, reticules, work bags and more

Here's my 2016 plans and goals!

PLANNED to do in 2016, but didn't or made progress but didn't finish:
-Robe a la Francaise including new petticoat & shoes: shoes not yet, but the dress is cut out and the bodice lining sewn together, in progress, will finish in 2017

-Corsets/Stays - Victorian and/or start working on new late 18th or early 19th century ones:
started two Victorian corsets that are in progress now

-Creative fun & colorful costume to wear to CC - no time
-Something 1920's-1940's - pushed off for a later date
-Late 18th century men's jacket for HB - not yet
-Early 19th century men's jacket for HB - not yet
-Early 19th century Regency bee spencer - so excited but not yet
-Tiffany blue marabou robe/lounging gown - nope, started to drape it but not yet
-Some form of 18th century dress or jacket with a hood - just because - not yet
-And more things covered in marabou. And fur. Because yeah. - not much, soon!

UFO's:
-Finish my Regency rose cotton velvet spencer
-Finish my 1780's cream silk jacket
-Modern yellow & black 'bee' hat - progress but not done
-Light green cotton Regency
-Lots of in-progress muffs and things for the shop

I'll do 2017 Plans in another post!