Monday, November 23, 2015

Regency 'fichu' - October (late) HSM Challenge 'Sewing Secrets'

For October's (late) Sewing Secrets challenge, 

I'm a bit late with October's HSM, because I needed to spend my recent sewing time getting my  house reading for my annual Regency Pumpkin Tea last weekend. It's the 9th annual this year, and since we moved early summer, there was still a LOT to do to get ready in time: organizing, unpacking, building furniture, hanging curtains. For that reason, I finished 90% of my HSM by Oct 31st (including the secret pocket) but the final 2 sides of black marabou trim didn't get completely sewn on until mid Nov, thus a bit late on this one.
HSM 'Sewing Secrets' - Regency fichu with hidden innner pocket
First, the finished early 19th century Regency 'fichu' - it's sewing secret is a small pocket sewn on the inside so that you can hide a love note, a secret, or more.
My 'Sewing Secrets' - Inner silk pocket for hiding a love note
How I put it together: I decided to take my draped Regency pelerine as a basis of this 'fichu', and draft up a new pattern: it took about an hour and quite a bit of trimming and pinning muslin to get the shaping right.

Here is my original inspiration fashion plate that I am basing this Regency fichu on:

Here are a few in-progress pics:
Cutting the silk fabric

Hand sewn silk 'fichu'

Silk fabric & lining - 'fichu'

Historical Sew Monthly OCTOBER challenge:

The Challenge: Sewing Secrets: Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

For this challenge, I hid a small pocket on the back of an early 19th century Regency silk marabou trimeed 'fichu' for a love note or secret letter! 

Fabric: Rusty red burgundy silk taffeta (fabric), medium blue silk dupioni (lining), burgundy silk dupioni (bias binding)

Pattern: none. Draped/drafted by me, based on my draped Regency pelerine.

Year: early 19th century

Notions: black marabou trim

How historically accurate is it? It's based on an early 19th century fashion plate, hand sewn and made from similar materials available at the time: pretty accurate (but not perfectly accurate).

Hours to complete: 1 hour to drape it, 1 hour to cut the fabric & lining, 2 hours to sew bias binding to finish edges, about 8 hours to sew on marabou trim. Gah, sewing on marabou takes forever!

First worn: not yet!

Total cost: All fabric and trim from the stash - I used very little silk taffeta, silk dupioni & marabou - probably about $15-20 total

It looks a bit bright in this flash picture, the silk is more rust red burgundy.

Next up is November - Silver Screen

Regency silk 'fichu' with marabou by theLadyDetalle

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